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Wall picture Monte Colt: Perla NeraPhoto: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
Length: 4 pitches / 100 m
Difficulty: 6b
Protection quality / General difficulty: S1/I
Description of protection: Adequately bolted.
Rock quality: Very good
Retreat: Retreating by the route is not recommended.
Tips and suggestions
Description of the route on Arcowall: http://www.arcowall.com/falesie/settore.asp?fd=1&sd=1Roadbook
APPROACH: From the parking lot, a hiking trail starts that leads to Monte Colt and then to Laghel. Follow this for about 15 minutes, then turn right at a cairn (see photo). After another 15 minutes, leave the path beneath a conspicuous power pole and head left under the walls of Monte Colt towards the south. The route is marked on a metal plaque at the base of the wall.
Alternatively, you can also park in Laghel and approach the start from there.
GPS coordinates for the start: 45.940426, 10.893530
1st pitch [25 m, 5c, 7 bolts]: Over stepped terrain up to the corner and then, strenuous, traverse left under the small roof using underclings. Ascend a few more meters to the belay with a chain.
2nd pitch [27 m, 6b, 10 bolts]: From the belay, climb through a confusing climbing section to the small roof. Overcome this on good holds. Climb a tricky 6b crack (can also be bypassed on the right).
3rd pitch [20 m, 5a, 6 bolts]: Traverse left, then follow a short chimney up to a ledge with a belay on chain.
4th pitch [32 m, 5c, 13 bolts]: Very beautiful pitch. From the belay, climb exposed along the edge and pass right of the tree to the belay at bolts on the summit plateau.
DESCENT: From the exit, follow the trail north until you reach the hiking path back to Ceniga. Follow this back to the parking lot.
Sarca-Brücke
Directions
At the north end of Arco (bridge over the Sarca river, large parking lot), turn into Via Paolina Caproni Maini. Follow it north under the walls. From Pizzeria La Lanterna drive 1.2 km further to the parking just after a 90-degree left curve.Parking
Small parking lot for a handful of cars. Warning: thieves are sometimes active here. The next safe parking is about 1.2 km further south at the Pizzeria La Lanterna.
GPS coordinates for parking: 45.947985, 10.900799
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Normal sport climbing gear, 14 quickdraws
Normal Sport Climbing Gear (NSA) means:
• 2 x 60 m half ropes or single rope
• Helmet, harness, backpack, climbing shoes, etc.
• Adequate slings (2) and HMS carabiners (4) for building anchors
• Belay and abseil device
• Quickdraws (10), extendable quickdraws (4)
• Some Kevlar slings
• First aid kit, mobile phone, bivy sack, headlamp
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions