Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
LENGTH/METERS: 15 pitches / 470 m
DIFFICULTY: max. 6c / obligatory 6b
S2 / III
ROCK: very good
ORIENTATION: southeast
EQUIPMENT/PROTECTION/RETREAT: Normal sport climbing gear, one set of friends up to the yellow BD / The route is secured with bolts, plentiful in the harder sections, in the easier lengths the bolt spacing is considerable and should be supplemented with friends. / Retreat via the route is always possible
Normal sport climbing gear
• 2 x 60 m half ropes or single rope
• helmet, harness, backpack, climbing shoes, etc.
• sufficient slings (2) and HMS carabiners (4) for building belays
• belay and abseil device
• quickdraws (10), extendable quickdraws (4)
• some kevlar slings
• first-aid kit, mobile phone, bivouac sack, headlamp
Tips and suggestions
Digital description on Cuneo Climbing:
http://www.cuneoclimbing.it/relazioni/multipitch/aragn_rusulent.pdf
Digital description on Vita in Montagna:
https://vitainmontagna.home.blog/2020/06/24/laragn-rusulent-scalando-sul-chersogno/
Excellent food for repeaters can be found at the simple village restaurant "La Tano di Grich" in San Michele di Prazzo
https://goo.gl/maps/nGUToQrASveW3YGA8
Roadbook
APPROACH: From De Costanzi on foot via the forest road continuing to Grange Chiotti. Now continue up the hiking trail T07 towards Colle di Chiasso. At a suitable point, leave the path and ascend off-trail to the obvious start.
START: At the foot of the distinctive pillar (see wall image). The start is marked with a plaque.
GPS coordinates start: 44.527217, 7.025868
DESCRIPTION OF PITCHES:
1.[15 m, 5c, 4 bolts]: Enjoyable crimp climbing on perfect rock. Belay on a large grassy ledge.
2.[15 m, 5c, 5 bolts]: From the belay, downclimb one meter to the left and ascend along the crack. Bypass the roof on the left and continue to the belay.
3.[30 m, 6a+, 9 bolts]: Climb up the crimps to a small overhang with good holds. Then a demanding slab. To a grass band, follow it horizontally right to the belay.
4.[30 m, 6a, 6 bolts]: From the belay 2-3 meters right, ascend over loose terrain. Then a fantastic grey slab up to the large grass band. 10 m higher at a rock bar belay on two bolts.
5.[30 m, II]: Ascend the steep meadow slightly keeping right to the belay on two bolts.
6.[55 m, 6a, 11 bolts]: Straight up to the first bolt and then traverse left on the grass band. Up compact slabs and crimps into the corner. From the last bolt traverse left onto the ledge to the belay.
7.[25 m, 6b+, 7 bolts]: Short section over loose terrain and then over two steps to the base of an orange wall. Very nice athletic climbing on cracks and a technically demanding corner.
8.[20 m, 6b+, 7 bolts]: Technically demanding climbing on crimps and a small roof.
9.[40 m, 6a, 9 bolts]: Confusing climbing over steps and corners, when in doubt keep left. Bolts spaced slightly wider, possibly integrate with friends.
10.[55 m, 6a, 14 bolts]: Not a particularly interesting pitch, after about 45 m the next bolt is not visible, here climb right over a small nose.
11.[25 m, 5b, 6 bolts]: Nice slab, mossy in places.
12.[30 m, 6c, 8 bolts]: Overcome the roof with athletic climbing, watch out for loose stones. Then continue up a slab.
13.[40 m, 5c+, 9 bolts]: Up the grey slab on crimps.
14.[25 m, 6a+, 5 bolts]: 2-3 m right of the belay climb the black slab. Larger bolt gaps, but can be integrated with friends (large yellow friend). When in doubt climb straight up until the next bolt is visible.
15.[27 m, 6b+, 6 bolts]: Continue over stepped terrain. Straight up towards the yellow roof with a nice athletic finish. Continue with easy climbing until the end of the wall. Belay with plaque “Fine”.
DESCENT: Abseil the route about eight times. It is possible to descend left over the shoulder, but due to difficult route finding and numerous exposed sections it is not recommended. Return via the ascent path to the vehicle.
Blick zum Monte Chersogno
La Tano di Grich
Grange Ciotti
Directions
ACCESS: Up the Valle Maira to Prazzo. Turn right and drive up to San Michel di Prazzo. Continue up to the hamlet De Costanzi, where the paved road ends and the forest road to Grange Chiotti begins (no entry sign). Park at the roadside before the hamlet.
Parking
Park near De Costanzi at the roadside: 44.519385, 7.063122Coordinates
Author’s map recommendations
L'ESCURSIONISTA hiking maps: Valle Maira, 1:25,000
https://www.escursionistaeditore.com/maps/escursionista-editore/italia-valle-maira-hiking-map-1-25-000-esc00.html
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions