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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Cottian Alps

Monte Chersogno: L'Aragn Rusulent

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AVS Referat Bergsport & HG Verified partner 
  • Mural Monte Chersogno Southeast Face
    Mural Monte Chersogno Southeast Face
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG

Selected alternatives for you
    Great climb on perfect quartzite!
    difficult
    Distance 9.9 km
    10:00 h
    965 m
    965 m
    2,674 m
    1,709 m
    “L’Aragn Rusulent” means rusty spider. The developer Luciano Orsi refers to himself and his age (61 years at first ascent). Luciano made a great success with this route. The line leads almost exclusively on perfect rock through the highest part of this wall. Repeaters especially look forward to crimps, cracks, and several smaller overhangs. Most of the route is around grade 6a, the harder sections are short and can be tackled well rested thanks to many resting points. The route is secured with bolts, but due to the larger bolt spacing in the easier sections it is recommended to carry a set of friends to supplement protection.

    Author’s recommendation

    Start early and only in excellent weather conditions, the route is long and the descent as well.
    Difficulty
    6c difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Highest point
    End of the route, 2,674 m
    Lowest point
    Parking De Costanzi, 1,709 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    700 m, 2:00 h
    Wall height
    400 m
    Climbing length
    470 m, 6:00 h
    Descent
    700 m, 1:15 h
    Belay stations
    with anchor point for abseiling, with bolts
    Protection
    with bolts
    Rope length
    2 x 60 m
    Number of quickdraws
    12
    First ascent
    2016, Luciano Orsi

    Track types

    Forested/wild trail 70.88%Path 18.49%Unknown 10.61%
    Forested/wild trail
    7 km
    Path
    1.8 km
    Unknown
    1.1 km
    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    LENGTH/METERS: 15 pitches / 470 m

    DIFFICULTY: max. 6c / obligatory 6b

    S2 / III

    ROCK: very good

    ORIENTATION: southeast

    EQUIPMENT/PROTECTION/RETREAT: Normal sport climbing gear, one set of friends up to the yellow BD / The route is secured with bolts, plentiful in the harder sections, in the easier lengths the bolt spacing is considerable and should be supplemented with friends. / Retreat via the route is always possible

    Normal sport climbing gear

    • 2 x 60 m half ropes or single rope

    • helmet, harness, backpack, climbing shoes, etc.

    • sufficient slings (2) and HMS carabiners (4) for building belays

    • belay and abseil device

    • quickdraws (10), extendable quickdraws (4)

    • some kevlar slings

    • first-aid kit, mobile phone, bivouac sack, headlamp

    Tips and suggestions

    Digital description on Cuneo Climbing:

    http://www.cuneoclimbing.it/relazioni/multipitch/aragn_rusulent.pdf

    Digital description on Vita in Montagna:

    https://vitainmontagna.home.blog/2020/06/24/laragn-rusulent-scalando-sul-chersogno/

    Excellent food for repeaters can be found at the simple village restaurant "La Tano di Grich" in San Michele di Prazzo

    https://goo.gl/maps/nGUToQrASveW3YGA8

    Roadbook

    APPROACH: From De Costanzi on foot via the forest road continuing to Grange Chiotti. Now continue up the hiking trail T07 towards Colle di Chiasso. At a suitable point, leave the path and ascend off-trail to the obvious start.

    START: At the foot of the distinctive pillar (see wall image). The start is marked with a plaque.

    GPS coordinates start: 44.527217, 7.025868

    DESCRIPTION OF PITCHES: 

    1.[15 m, 5c, 4 bolts]: Enjoyable crimp climbing on perfect rock. Belay on a large grassy ledge.

    2.[15 m, 5c, 5 bolts]: From the belay, downclimb one meter to the left and ascend along the crack. Bypass the roof on the left and continue to the belay.

    3.[30 m, 6a+, 9 bolts]: Climb up the crimps to a small overhang with good holds. Then a demanding slab. To a grass band, follow it horizontally right to the belay.

    4.[30 m, 6a, 6 bolts]: From the belay 2-3 meters right, ascend over loose terrain. Then a fantastic grey slab up to the large grass band. 10 m higher at a rock bar belay on two bolts.

    5.[30 m, II]: Ascend the steep meadow slightly keeping right to the belay on two bolts.

    6.[55 m, 6a, 11 bolts]: Straight up to the first bolt and then traverse left on the grass band. Up compact slabs and crimps into the corner. From the last bolt traverse left onto the ledge to the belay.

    7.[25 m, 6b+, 7 bolts]: Short section over loose terrain and then over two steps to the base of an orange wall. Very nice athletic climbing on cracks and a technically demanding corner.

    8.[20 m, 6b+, 7 bolts]: Technically demanding climbing on crimps and a small roof.

    9.[40 m, 6a, 9 bolts]: Confusing climbing over steps and corners, when in doubt keep left. Bolts spaced slightly wider, possibly integrate with friends.

    10.[55 m, 6a, 14 bolts]: Not a particularly interesting pitch, after about 45 m the next bolt is not visible, here climb right over a small nose.

    11.[25 m, 5b, 6 bolts]: Nice slab, mossy in places.

    12.[30 m, 6c, 8 bolts]: Overcome the roof with athletic climbing, watch out for loose stones. Then continue up a slab.

    13.[40 m, 5c+, 9 bolts]: Up the grey slab on crimps.

    14.[25 m, 6a+, 5 bolts]: 2-3 m right of the belay climb the black slab. Larger bolt gaps, but can be integrated with friends (large yellow friend). When in doubt climb straight up until the next bolt is visible.

    15.[27 m, 6b+, 6 bolts]: Continue over stepped terrain. Straight up towards the yellow roof with a nice athletic finish. Continue with easy climbing until the end of the wall. Belay with plaque “Fine”.

    DESCENT: Abseil the route about eight times. It is possible to descend left over the shoulder, but due to difficult route finding and numerous exposed sections it is not recommended. Return via the ascent path to the vehicle.

    Rest stop
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    Monte Chersogno
    Blick zum Monte Chersogno
    La Tano di Grich
    Grange Ciotti

    Directions

    ACCESS: Up the Valle Maira to Prazzo. Turn right and drive up to San Michel di Prazzo. Continue up to the hamlet De Costanzi, where the paved road ends and the forest road to Grange Chiotti begins (no entry sign). Park at the roadside before the hamlet.

    Parking

    Park near De Costanzi at the roadside: 44.519385, 7.063122

    Coordinates

    DD
    44.519903, 7.062316
    DMS
    44°31'11.7"N 7°03'44.3"E
    UTM
    32T 346010 4931446
    w3w 
    ///debt.uncorks.contributions
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Author’s map recommendations

    L'ESCURSIONISTA hiking maps: Valle Maira, 1:25,000

    https://www.escursionistaeditore.com/maps/escursionista-editore/italia-valle-maira-hiking-map-1-25-000-esc00.html

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    6c difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    9.9 km
    Duration
    10:00 h
    Ascent
    965 m
    Descent
    965 m
    Highest point
    2,674 m
    Lowest point
    1,709 m
    Out and back Scenic Insider tip Wall Slab Abseil Pleasure

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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