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Topo of the route "Whitepools"Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
Exciting and aesthetic route at the edge of the waterfall
This route is among the few easy and quickly accessible sport climbing routes in Gröden. It first follows the left and then the right side of the waterfall and offers exciting and aesthetic climbing. Crimps and slabs prevail. Good foot technique on water-polished slabs is necessary in the crux pitch. The first two "grassy" pitches can be bypassed via the adjacent "Dreamcatcher".
Author’s recommendation
Be sure to consider the water level, after heavy rains the route may not be climbable.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Show elevation profileRest stops
Hotel Restaurant MeisulesChalet Gerard - The Mountain Lodge
Safety information
Length: 6 pitches / 210 m
Difficulty: 5c+
Quality of protection / General difficulty: S1/I
Description of protection: Sport climbing route, the distances between protection points are sometimes a bit longer. Consider bringing Kevlar to replace old slings.
Rock quality: Very good
Retreat via the route possible at any time.
Roadbook
APPROACH: 10 min / From the parking lot, the waterfall and the route are clearly visible. Cross the road and follow the path on the left side of the stream.
1. [30 m, 5a+, 2 bolts, 4 slings]: Start immediately to the right of the rightmost sport climbing route of the climbing garden. Climb the grassy ramp and then continue vertically over small walls and ledges. Short tricky spot a few meters below the belay. Belay at a cemented bolt 5-6 m left of the waterfall.
2. [30 m, 4c, 4 bolts]: Climb further up over steps. Watch the rope line, loose stones lie on the ledges in the upper part. Belay at a cemented ring right next to the waterfall.
3. [25 m, 5c+, 5 bolts, 2 slings]: Move right over the water and along the "ridge" upwards. Technically demanding slab climbing on eroded rock. Belay at a cemented ring and 1 bolt.
4. [30 m, 5b, 5 bolts]: Continue climbing right of the waterfall. Belay at a cemented ring.
5. [28 m, 4c, 4 bolts, 2 slings]: From the belay, keep left and climb up to the edge and then along it to the cemented belay. It is possible here to traverse right into the meadow for the descent.
6. [60 m, 4c, 2 bolts, 7 slings]: Climb straight up, slightly leftwards, to the belay. Abseil just on the right.
DESCENT: 45 / Abseil about 40 m to the meadow from the abseil anchor, traverse left and downwards to the large tree with an abseil sling. Abseil about 50 m here to the descent path through the dwarf pines. Follow the path back to the start and then to the parking lot.
Chalet Gerard - The Mountain Lodge
Natural Climbing Wall Sella
Directions
Coming from the north, take the A22 motorway to the Klausen-Gröden exit and then continue on SS242d to Sankt Ulrich.
Coming from the south, follow SS12 to Waidbruck, then branch off onto SS242 and continue to Sankt Ulrich.
From Sankt Ulrich, continue towards Sella Pass. About 500 m after the turn to Gröden Pass, cross a bridge and immediately park in the parking lot on the right side.
Parking
There is enough space for 4-5 cars.
GPS coordinates of the parking lot:
46.530245, 11.782947
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Mauro Bernardi Gröden Climbing Guide.
Vertical Life, Dolomites multi-pitch climbs: https://shop.vertical-life.info/de/dolomiten-mehrseillaengen
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Normal sport climbing equipment, 10 quickdraws
Normal Sport Climbing Equipment (NSA) means:
• 2 x 60 m half ropes or single rope
• Helmet, harness, backpack, climbing shoes, etc.
• Sufficient slings (2) and HMS carabiners (4) for building belays
• Belay and abseil device
• Quickdraws (10), extendable quickdraws (4)
• Some Kevlar slings
• First aid kit, cell phone, bivy sack, headlamp
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions