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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Karwendel

Lafatscher NO intersection

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  • Topo - Lafatscher NO intersection
    Topo - Lafatscher NO intersection
    Photo: Mario Zott, © Heidi von Wettstein, www.federweg.at

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    Imposing line and an absolute classic - not least because of the mention in Walter Pause's famous selection of classic climbing guides "Im extremen Fels".
    difficult
    Distance 22.5 km
    10:15 h
    2,450 m
    2,450 m
    2,502 m
    790 m
    Apart from the belays, the giant dihedral is clearly the opposite of plaisir. There is exactly one new bolt as an intermediate protection at 360 metres of wall height, with a climbing length of just under 420 metres. In addition, there are a good two handfuls of intermediate bolts, some of dubious quality. Two old wooden wedges, apparently from the first winter ascent by Bernd Hollaus and Josef Hoss, are still stuck as a historical delicacy and A0 aid. Combined with the rather long approach, this makes for a more than fulfilling day of alpine climbing.

    Author’s recommendation

    A long, cloudless midsummer day makes this tour an unforgettable and stress-free alpine climbing experience.
    Difficulty
    5c+ difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    Lafatscher Rosskopf, 2,502 m
    Lowest point
    Halltal, car park, 790 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
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    May
    Jun
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    Aug
    Sep
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    Nov
    Dec
    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    1,900 m, 3:00 h
    Wall height
    320 m
    Climbing length
    420 m, 5:30 h
    Descent
    1,400 m, 1:30 h
    Belay stations
    with bolts
    Protection
    sporadic bolts, pitons
    Rope length
    2 x 50 m
    Number of quickdraws
    10
    First ascent
    V. Weber and R. Fick (1926) and M. Auckenthaler, E. Pirker (1930)

    Track types

    Show elevation profile

    Tips and suggestions

    www.hallerangerhaus.at

    blog.bergzeit.de/19331/leidenschaft/2-mal-360m-riesenverschneidung-alpinklettern

    Roadbook

    With MTB support through the Halltal valley to the manor houses. From there, take the well-marked path to the Lafatscherjoch and descend on the north side almost as far as the Hallerangerhaus. An access path branches off here.

    The climbing begins quite easily with three pitches of UIAA III-IV difficulty. The rock is not necessarily good, but not bad either. The real difficulties begin on the fourth pitch. As the crack is already well-developed here, it can already be secured excellently. Pitches 5 to 7 are the key lengths. Some of them are quite demanding and always stop directly at the crack or just next to it. Then cross over the gravel band to the right. Walk carefully when rope teams follow! This is followed by two more easy lengths to the exit.

    Descent:
    You don't usually climb up to the summit of the Lafatscher Roßkopf, but cross in a southerly direction over gravel and ledges into the cirque that leads down to the Lafatscherjoch. The path is marked with cairns. It is slightly uphill at the start!

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
    High point
    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
    show {x} more
    Photo
    Video
    Parkplatz Halltal-Eingang
    Hallerangerhaus

    Public transport

    Take the IVB line E, get off at Bettelwurfsiedlung and then take a taxi as far as possible to Halltal.

    Directions

    Take the A12 Inntal motorway to the Hall Mitte exit. Through Hall from south to north and on to Absam-Eichat, follow Salzbergstraße to the large car park at the entrance to Halltal.

    Parking

    Large free car park at the entrance to the Halltal valley.

    Coordinates

    DD
    47.309687, 11.519478
    DMS
    47°18'34.9"N 11°31'10.1"E
    UTM
    32T 690430 5242657
    w3w 
    ///remedies.venomous.workers
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Author’s map recommendations

    Alpine Club Map No. 5/2 Karwendelgebirge Centre

    Book recommendations for this region:

    Show more

    Recommended maps for this region:

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    Equipment

    Complete alpine climbing equipment, Friend range from 0.5 to 3 - ideally BD 1 to 3 double.

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    5c+ difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    22.5 km
    Duration
    10:15 h
    Ascent
    2,450 m
    Descent
    2,450 m
    Highest point
    2,502 m
    Lowest point
    790 m
    Round trip Scenic Wall Descending on foot

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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