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Forgotten CliffPhoto: Visit Paganella
Author’s recommendation
- San Lorenzo in Banale, one of the most beautiful villages in Italy
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Ristorante Castel ManiSafety information
Although the cliffs of Paganella area are periodically inspected, do not forget that they are still natural walls with free access and therefore subject to agents of various nature - both atmospheric and human - that may damage the rock and the gear present on the wall. For a climbing experience as safe as possible, it is necessary not to abide by the following safety norms:
- always wear a helmet whether while climbing or during a stop at the foot of the cliff
- before starting to climb, double-check your safety equipment reciprocally; climbing harness, quickdraws, knot and brake stand
- do not climbing alone
- stop at the foot of the cliff only for as long as necessary to climb and always pay attention to other climbers on the wall
- always check the gear present on the wall
- make use of adequate securing gear after having learnt the correct use
Anyone who climbs, is aware of the risk inherent in the practice of this activity and accepts it.
Whether you have never practised this activity or even if you simply would like the supervision of expert and comptent specialists, do not hesitate to contact the local Alpin Guide.
Tips and suggestions
Tourist Board Dolomiti PaganellaRoadbook
This crag, also known as “Torcel”, from the locality on which it stands, was discovered and bolted towards the end of the 80s. The particular conformation of this rock, a conglomerate of holes,and the beautiful grassland below made it immediately very popular in the period in which sport climbing in Trentino became popular. The crag was closed in the early 90s by the owner of the land, and only in 2017 was opened again to the public, hence the name “Forgotten Cliff”. The Dolomiti Open association bought the land in that year (thanks to a crowdfunding) and is still re-bolting the entire crag, retracing the historical itineraries and adding new routes, all bolted according to the latest safety standards. The close bolting, the beautiful grassland with a spring at the base and the new easy itineraries make this place an ideal cliff for families and beginners, nevertheless the crag offers routes suitable for all levels of climbers up to level 8a.
Public transport
Trentino Trasporti, through Mezzolombardo/Andalo or through Ponte Arche/San Lorenzo in Banale.Directions
Once you are near the church of San Lorenzo in Banale, which overlooks the state road, follow sign posts for the “campo sportivo/piscina” (sport fields/swimming pool) passing by the bank “Cassa Rurale” (coming from Molveno turn left). From here (Promeghin) you'll walk along a new path to the climbing wall.Parking
San Lorenzo in Banale - Promeghin.Coordinates
Author’s map recommendations
Brochure about the crags of the region, for free in the offices of Tourist Board Dolomiti Paganella.
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Helmet, harness, biner.Related Events
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions