Kampenwand South Face, Chiemgauer Alps

Approach

From Steinlingalm, first ascend towards the east summit. Below it, continue to the right to reach the Schelchinger-Scharte. From there, follow the path south-facing, descending at times steeply. Then traverse westward. A memorial plaque on a forebuilding is clearly visible on the approach. But beware: slightly above, there is another memorial plaque (Gerd Wiesmann). Slightly right of it is the start.

Climbing Description

1st pitch (IV+) From the start, a flake leads us upward. For a few meters, it continues slabby and stepped up to broken terrain. At the beginning of a slab, an anchor can be made on a ring. Although the next ring visually suggests itself by the small ledge below, climbing becomes quite tight at the key section following there. (20 m)

2nd pitch (V+) First over a slab to the key section. There, a slightly overhanging flake greets us. We are led ascending rightward. It is worth looking for less used footholds at this point. The effort pays off, as the polishing doesn't stress the nerves. After the key section, which can also be climbed A0, it goes upward in a corner. Those who stretch well here almost entirely avoid the polished spots on the left wall. At the end, go left to the belay. (32 m)

3rd pitch (V) From the belay, rightward to the chimney band. The only difficulty is the short upward bulges in the ascending traverse. But the holds are always in the right place and little worn. About halfway through the pitch, the roof opens, and through easy terrain of grade III, it goes to the belay. (40 m)

4th pitch (IV+) The last pitch greets us with a short wall section. It is recommended to traverse right and use the chimney-like corner. Solid and grippy rock greets us. Those who ascend directly to the hook should be sure of themselves. After the wall section, it goes over lightly stepped terrain to the ridge. We follow it toward the east summit and descend left at a polished wall section to the last belay. (30 m)

Descent

From the last belay, descend to the Schelchinger-Scharte (II-).

• The complete description can be found in the literature. This description serves as a supplement.
• Topo see literature