Il canto dell’Indria, Costa dell’Angelo, Dolomites (Sarca Valley)

Approach

Follow the path from the parking lot towards the wall and the hiking trail heading south. The path initially ends at a road, which we continue to follow southward. Before the bridge to Dro, the hiking trail continues straight towards Maso Lizzone. We follow it for a few hundred meters until a stone with the inscription "arrampicata". From there, a path leaves the hiking trail on the right and goes uphill. At the first fork, diagonally left and then right to the start. (30 minutes)

Climbing description

1st pitch (VI-) Over scaly slabs with some bulges very directly upwards to the belay. (30 m)

2nd pitch (V+) Clearly easier than the first pitch, it continues now with good holds. (25 m)

3rd pitch (VI) The traverse quickly proceeds upwards to the end of the slabby wall part after leaving the belay. From there over the slab and at the end again to the edge of the overhangs to the right. (25 m)

4th pitch (VI-) Leave the belay to the right and traverse a short bulge. Now with a bit of feeling through bushes far to the right to the belay. The bridge shown in the topo can only be guessed from two protruding iron rods. (30 m)

5th pitch (VI-) A small bush-covered ledge leads now to the slabs in front of us. We climb these directly up and come to the belay a few meters before a wall at the end. (50 m)

6th pitch (V+) First it goes with rubble up to a wall. Although bushes on the right seem to block the entrance to the wall, it is recommended to start it from there. At an undercut grip pocket, the sling can be clipped with a sufficient span. If missing, a more left located but worse grip helps - however, this makes the beginning of the pitch considerably harder. After the key section of the pitch, go straight up and as soon as the rock slopes, move right to the belay. (30 m)

7th pitch (IV) Up the pillar and then left over rubble and trees passing to the base of the following red corner. (40 m)

8th pitch (VI+) First we climb two detached blocks. The beginning corner has only one bolt hanger, so personal protection must be added necessarily. Using good and secure stemming technique, climb up it. The corner is overhanging. The foothold possibilities for stemming are clearly defined. (20 m)

9th pitch (VI+) Traverse left from the belay around the corner. Enter the clearly visible ramp and climb crack climbing to the belay. (25 m)

10th pitch (VI-) Initially traverse right, then ascend on a crack flake. At the end through a small wood to the wall with belay. (30 m)

11th pitch (VI+) The pitch is characterized by steep wall and corner climbing. Four bolt hangers provide sufficient security. The belay ledge of the now expected belay is original: a rock block has been glued to the wall and offers a narrow yet comfortable surface. (30 m)

12th pitch (VI-) Follow an airy yet wonderfully grippy and slightly ascending traverse to the left. (25 m)

13th pitch (VI) First ascend left to reach a wonderful flake. It offers good under- and side holds. For the feet, it means to absorb the counterforce well on friction and small dents. After the flake, a short ascent and then slabby traverse right to the edge. An airy belay awaits us. (40 m)

14th pitch (VI) Leave the belay to the right and ascend keeping right to a initially hidden corner. Using proven stemming and stemming technique, climb up there. (25 m)

15th pitch (VI-) From the last belay, first easy to the left, then over the pillar with small holds to the exit. (25 m)

Descent

Initially uphill to a clearing with an open hut of Crozoalm. Keep right there and choose the path towards Dro. Initially, in a constant up and down towards north until a partly secured path that leads downwards. Upon reaching the trail in the valley, keep left and return to the sports ground. (40 minutes)

• The complete description can be found in the literature. This own description serves as a supplement.
• Topo see literature