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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Reutte Nature Park Region

Hiking Peak "Böldkamin"

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Frank Nebbe 
  • Climbing in the upper section of the Böldkamin
    Climbing in the upper section of the Böldkamin
    Photo: Frank Nebbe, Community
Map / Hiking Peak "Böldkamin"

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    A classic, fairly long chimney route that shouldn't be underestimated, despite its low difficulty rating.
    difficult
    Distance 12.5 km
    9:00 h
    1,309 m
    1,309 m
    2,161 m
    852 m
    The northeast face of the Gehrenspitze is cut through by a striking chimney. This is the Böll Chimney, first ascended in 1904. This is a route for mountaineers that should not be underestimated due to the climbing style—which is uncommon by today’s standards—the sparse protection, and the rock, which is not always particularly solid. To avoid accidents, the lead climber should be proficient at alpine grade 5. By comparison, the west ridge of the Kellespitze is considerably easier.
    Difficulty
    IV+4bT5 difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    2,161 m
    Lowest point
    852 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    850 m, 2:30 h
    Wall height
    350 m
    Climbing length
    400 m, 4:30 h
    Descent
    1,300 m, 2:30 h
    Belay stations
    with bolts, trad gear
    Protection
    pitons, trad gear
    Rope length
    1 x 60 m
    Number of quickdraws
    6
    First ascent
    W. Böld 1904

    Track types

    Asphalt 12.21%Dirt road 2.77%Forested/wild trail 15.29%Path 61.76%Traces of trail 1.92%Unknown 6.03%
    Asphalt
    1.5 km
    Dirt road
    346 m
    Forested/wild trail
    1.9 km
    Path
    7.7 km
    Traces of trail
    239 m
    Unknown
    751 m
    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    In the guidebooks by M. Lutz and T. Freudig, the route is rated only UIAA 3 and 3+, respectively. I consider that an understatement, especially when compared to the Southeast Chimney on the Gimpel (4+). Over the course of 9 long pitches, we found a total of 4 old standard pitons of uncertain quality and placed Friends or head slings 6 more times. As the lead climber, you’re essentially free soloing for long stretches. The rock is average to good by “Allgäu standards,” cleaned by countless “rushing waters” and quite smooth.

    Make sure the weather is safe. A retreat is likely to be tricky, as knotted ropes can get snagged on the many natural anchors, and there’s a lot of loose rock lying around.

    Roadbook

    From the parking lot on the small road leading to Frauensee, head up to the Costaries Chapel. Continue over the Hahle-Alpe and past the Schaller Chapel on mostly good trails to the Hahle Pass. Descend briefly, then turn left up onto the ridge and around the mountain pines. Then turn right again, descend briefly, and head over rocky terrain to the trailhead. About 2.5 hours from the parking lot.

    The route always follows the chimney. At forks, keep slightly to the left. Detours to the left or right through the rocky terrain are not recommended, as the rock there has not been cleaned by the stream and is therefore brittle and dirty.

    Every 40–45 m, you’ll find individual, glued-in anchor points—keep your eyes open. The same applies to the sparse intermediate hooks of uncertain reliability. The 8th pitch is very narrow and difficult to climb with a backpack. Eventually, you reach a saddle (Zackenstand; no bolts found). Continue left up the crumbly gully to a meadow. Here you can unclip. Head up the meadow to the east ridge and over it to the summit. The descent involves easy scrambling along the standard route and continues down to the Gehrenjoch. The descent continues past the Gehrenalm and along the well-maintained trail to the northern edge of Wängle, then another 20 minutes east to the parking lot.

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    Coordinates

    DD
    47.495690, 10.697696
    DMS
    47°29'44.5"N 10°41'51.7"E
    UTM
    32T 627868 5261647
    w3w 
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    Equipment

    60 m single rope (rappelling not recommended), 6 quickdraws, 2 thin slings, and a small set of Friends.

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    IV+4bT5 difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    12.5 km
    Duration
    9:00 h
    Ascent
    1,309 m
    Descent
    1,309 m
    Highest point
    2,161 m
    Lowest point
    852 m
    Round trip Scenic Insider tip Summit route Descending on foot

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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