Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
In the guidebooks by M. Lutz and T. Freudig, the route is rated only UIAA 3 and 3+, respectively. I consider that an understatement, especially when compared to the Southeast Chimney on the Gimpel (4+). Over the course of 9 long pitches, we found a total of 4 old standard pitons of uncertain quality and placed Friends or head slings 6 more times. As the lead climber, you’re essentially free soloing for long stretches. The rock is average to good by “Allgäu standards,” cleaned by countless “rushing waters” and quite smooth.
Make sure the weather is safe. A retreat is likely to be tricky, as knotted ropes can get snagged on the many natural anchors, and there’s a lot of loose rock lying around.
Roadbook
From the parking lot on the small road leading to Frauensee, head up to the Costaries Chapel. Continue over the Hahle-Alpe and past the Schaller Chapel on mostly good trails to the Hahle Pass. Descend briefly, then turn left up onto the ridge and around the mountain pines. Then turn right again, descend briefly, and head over rocky terrain to the trailhead. About 2.5 hours from the parking lot.
The route always follows the chimney. At forks, keep slightly to the left. Detours to the left or right through the rocky terrain are not recommended, as the rock there has not been cleaned by the stream and is therefore brittle and dirty.
Every 40–45 m, you’ll find individual, glued-in anchor points—keep your eyes open. The same applies to the sparse intermediate hooks of uncertain reliability. The 8th pitch is very narrow and difficult to climb with a backpack. Eventually, you reach a saddle (Zackenstand; no bolts found). Continue left up the crumbly gully to a meadow. Here you can unclip. Head up the meadow to the east ridge and over it to the summit. The descent involves easy scrambling along the standard route and continues down to the Gehrenjoch. The descent continues past the Gehrenalm and along the well-maintained trail to the northern edge of Wängle, then another 20 minutes east to the parking lot.
Coordinates
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
60 m single rope (rappelling not recommended), 6 quickdraws, 2 thin slings, and a small set of Friends.Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions