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Alpine Climbing Premium content Alpine Climbing · Lepontine Alps

Havanna (Pinocchio, Monte Garzo, Valle Maggia)

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  • At the end of the 4th pitch (5c)
    At the end of the 4th pitch (5c)
    Photo: Outdooractive Climbing
moderate
Distance 1.8 km
4:00 h
343 m
343 m
604 m
261 m
Nice route over slabs, flakes, and edges with good protection in beautiful Maggia Valley gneiss; descent is by abseiling the route.

The Havanna in the Pinocchio sector at Monte Garzo offers 5 pitches over 240 climbing meters. The first pitches are quite slabby; further up it becomes more grippy with flakes, edges, and cracks. The route is well protected with bolts. The belays are set up for abseiling. The foot descent left over the ramp did not appear very inviting to us. Due to the short approach and usually only 5 pitches, the routes in the Pinocchio sector can be climbed well on bad weather days or when time is limited. If you have more time, you can add one or two more routes. This way you can also fill a whole climbing day with many climbing meters. The routes in the Pinocchio sector are very suitable as a start, before attempting the long, strenuous, and demanding "Alhambra" (6b+/6a+ obligatory, 600 m, 18 pitches, very well protected), which starts a bit lower to the right.

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At Outdooractive Climbing, we offer you high-quality and professionally described alpine climbing routes from experienced authors of the Outdooractive Team. Additionally, you will find numerous helpful pages with climbing-related information that you need for your next route or your next climbing holiday. Have fun browsing!

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