Große Cir: Cameron lead

This short route impresses with very good rock and interesting climbing. The line is visible from the parking lot in the left section of the south face. The first and last two pitches lead through chimneys that are partly smoothly polished but still offer interesting climbing; climbing without a backpack is recommended (especially in the first and last pitches). Especially beautiful is the third pitch, which leads over a compact vertical wall with athletic climbing.

Repeat climbers beware: the V grade from the 1930s is significantly harder to climb than a modern V grade!

1st pitch (30m, V+, 2 pitons, 1 sling, 2 wooden chocks): The rappel station at the two wooden chocks indicates many broken repeats. The key section is a delicate matter. The two walls of the chimney are polished smooth by water and good holds are scarce. Good stemming technique is advantageous. Climbers needing more protection can bring two Black Diamond Friends of sizes XXXXX and one of size XXXX. At the large chock block, one can slip beneath (caution, rope friction!) or climb around it to the left. Belay immediately after on the right side at 1 piton and 1 sling.

2nd pitch (25 m, IV-, 1 sling): Follow the broad gully upward, climb a small bulge left, and belay on a wide ledge at 2 pitons.

3rd pitch (30 m, V+, 4 pitons, 4 slings): A beautiful gray wall with holes and jug holds. From the belay veer right and climb past pitons and slings to a narrow ledge. Follow this left to a piton, then climb somewhat higher right again. The closed crack can be bypassed on the left. After the last piton, traverse diagonally right to a ledge beneath a yellow, crumbly wall section and set belay with two pitons on the floor.

4th pitch (45 m, IV+, 4 pitons, 3 slings): Another excellent pitch. From the belay, climb a few meters straight up the chimney corner, then traverse left to an old belay. Climb above a slab with parallel cracks up to the chimney entrance. This follows very beautiful and exposed chimney climbing with a tricky section shortly before its end. Belay at a large sand clock in a niche.

5th pitch (50 m, IV+, 2 slings, 1 piton): Climb right from the belay into the inclined chimney. Leave this after some meters and climb the right wall up to a large ledge. Traverse this to the base of the next chimney (old belay on sling) and climb up. The climbing becomes increasingly demanding, up to a tricky spot in the polished steep chimney at a chock block shortly before the top (a backpack is disadvantageous here). Belay on the ledge at 2 slings on the right side.