Magnificent ridge route for ridge lovers in a dreamlike setting
The most beautiful route in the Silvretta. Hiking, scrambling, abseiling, glacier contact in a magnificent mountain backdrop. Whether as a day route or with an overnight stay at the Saarbrücken Hut, it is an absolute highlight for climbing mountaineers. However, one should be aware that the route has many exposed sections and only a part can be protected. Belaying must be routine and fast so that you can finish the route in daylight. Better start earlier and then enjoy a cold drink longer at the Saarbrücken Hut.
Route done on October 21, 2018
Author’s recommendation
Inform yourself in advance about the conditions (e.g. at the hut warden) and be aware that the route can become very long because you may have to wait or not find the way (allow extra time + headlamp). If you are a pure climber, the route can quickly overwhelm you. You should also be very fit, even starting from the hut.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
Difficulty and risks: The approach is partly pathless and leads through loose boulder terrain! (do not go underneath each other). The gully onto the ridge is steep and carries the danger of rockfall for those following (go individually). Wayfinding requires alpine experience as often 'everything goes', but not everything is right! The descent onto the glacier is on smooth rock and requires surefootedness (no protection possibilities). Moreover, depending on the season, the bergschrund is quite widely open and must be climbed down. Very late in the season the ice at the edge was only a few centimeters thick and stepping on it would have ended fatally. Crampons may be necessary for the glacier, depending on snow cover.
Tips and suggestions
Video of the route https://youtu.be/PqdJGOc4qO4
Roadbook
We ascended from the Vermunt reservoir (P1780) (optionally Bieler Höhe P2040) towards the Saarbrücken Hut up to a clear junction to the left/southeast (P2380/1:22h).
There we put down the bikes and followed the marked path up to the Litzner saddle (P2737/2:02h).
On the saddle we saw to the right/west a broad broken ridge, which we passed below to the left/northwest and climbed over loose boulder terrain into a gully. We kept always to the right in the gully until we saw cairns on the small opposite ridge. We reached these by crossing this steep, earth-covered gully and thus came onto solid rock that led us further upwards.
At the top it became scree-covered and uncomfortable to walk again, but eventually we found an exit to the right towards the col (P2885/2:30h).
Here we met two ibex and after a few meters I saw that a fixed rope led from below left/southeast on new bolts to the saddle, possibly an ascent/descent option.
From there it continued with easy scrambling and there was more and more solid rock and before you knew it you come to the first bolt and then orientate yourself on the logical line the rock dictates and that a clever first climber would also seek.
It was quickly fun, only the thin air really challenged us flatlanders.
Up to the slab the way was clear to us, but I would actually have climbed through the slab and then through the corner, but the topo however "ordered" us to avoid left on the slab, which we obediently did (why one should do this was not clear to us afterwards either). Then over the ramp and up to the summit of the Großlitzner (P3109/3:58h).
Summit register, snack, schnapps, photos and then on to abseiling.
We had to thread the rope 4 times until we were down, and due to the wind we could have almost abseiled horizontally :)
There was quite some renovation and many new bolts at the abseil points.
On the Hochjoch (P2980/4:42h) you still scramble a bit to the ascent to the Seehorn on solid rock. We also climbed down an exposed rock step (there are protection points there too) and additionally bypassed ice passages in the rock.
The ascent to the Große Seehorn was easy climbing with sections on firn, but we had to pause repeatedly as our bodies simply did not know what to do with this thin air. But a Coke break gave us enough air again for the remaining meters, so we finally reached the Große Seehorn (P3121/5:10h) exactly at 12:00 noon.
Then it was abseiling and we chose the abseil route onto the glacier, which we realized was not the best option.
The second abseil point is via slings with a snap gate carabiner, but this should be replaced. (2m old rope + 1 Rapid Maillon would be ideal).
After 8 times abseiling on homemade abseil rings (!!) we were finally on the firn slope which we had to descend. From there we had to find our way down over the scree-covered rock labyrinth to the glacier, which was not so easy. We tended to keep southwest up to the rock and then back north (see track). Then came the bergschrund partially hidden under very thin firn, so we decided to go over a moraine and then cross onto the glacier. This went well and we walked NNW towards Seelücke (P2776/7:08). (Crampons may be necessary depending on snow conditions, also an ice axe).
The descent now led towards the Saarbrücken Hut, but we left the path before that and headed directly for the descent route until we reached the forest road and finally to the bikes (P2380/7:38h).
Now came the pleasant part of the descent and 18 minutes later we were already back at the car. These two-wheelers are simply priceless.
After almost exactly 8 hours we were back and could enjoy a beer in the sun. Wonderful route and completely for ourselves.
Moränensee
Großlitzner
Großes Seehorn
Seelücke
Saarbrücker hut
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
Bus line 85 S Stop Partenen Saarbrücken Hut https://www.vmobil.at/bus-bahn/das-vvv-liniennetz/linie-85-sDirections
By car via the Silvretta high alpine road (toll €16.50 as of 2021) https://www.silvretta-bielerhoehe.at/de/Preise-Service/PreiseParking
Parking Vermunt reservoir (P1780) or Bieler Höhe (P2040)Coordinates
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
- Climbing helmet - Climbing harness - Rope - Approach/climbing/mountaineering boots suitable for climbing the difficulty ridge, although most is rocky terrain - Ice axe & crampons (depending on tour and glacier conditions) - First aid kit - Bivouac sack (1 per 2 persons) - Headlamp - Quickdraws, also alpine draws - Abseil device & short prusik - Belay device for lead and follow climbing - Several carabiners - Various slings for intermediate protection For belay building and rescue techniques - 1x 5m Kevlar accessory cord - 1x 6m Kevlar accessory cord - 1x ascender (e.g. Spok, Microtraxion, Tibloc, ...)Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions