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A kéktúrázás napja
Depending on fitness, you should plan 10-14 hours for the tour including approach and descent.
The rock is never really bad; after the slabby lower part, the rock gets quite flaky. The route-finding basically always follows the weaknesses of the wall. The wall height is given as 550 m in the climbing guide, but that only includes the buttress, which felt more like part of the approach than the route for us.
The parking meter costs 6,- CHF or € per day and can only be paid with coins.
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
All belays are equipped with a Munin ring and cannot always be backed up.
There are about 2-3 bolts per pitch, but not always exactly at the difficult sections. Otherwise, there are many normal pitons, some quite a few, so it's worth taking 1-2 extra quickdraws.
We hardly used mobile protection, only sporadically 0.4, 0.5, and 0.75 friends. Nuts were placed exactly twice in 13 pitches. The rock is especially very compact in the lower part of the wall, and as mentioned, it's quite well protected. Those who confidently master the upper 6th grade (which is recommended, since the route is fairly sustained) should manage well with the predominant protection. Medium cams (including 0.4) and small nuts do no harm. You can practically never place sand timers and knifeblades.
Rappelling should be possible from the route thanks to the Munin rings. In the lower part of the wall, however, the route already veers somewhat to the right. Those caught by a thunderstorm while descending will probably reach the Lindauerhütte faster than the Carschinahütte.
Roadbook
Approach:
First, cross the stream on a bridge and follow the paved road until it becomes a forest road. Continue along this to the Carschinahütte (1:15h from parking lot P6). There is a fountain here. Then follow a flat trail towards Drusator. With fairly good visibility, you can already see the trail traces that lead through the scree slopes toward the Drusen Tower. Just below the Drusator, turn left on faint paths towards the well-visible Drusen Tower. The traces get better until you stand on the scree below the buttress (0:45h from hut). Now briefly off-trail up to the buttress and climb it from right to left at logical spots ascending. At the end of the buttress, a short 3rd grade section, then you are at the start, which is at the left, not immediately visible Munin ring beneath a corner-like gully (0:30h).
Route: A topo is apparently available from Topoguide, but we managed very well with the route description
https://forum.rocksports.de/showthread.php?tid=55.
Descent: The descent goes first off-trail down to the right over boulder terrain towards a depression with a marked path. Then a short steel cable leads to a scree slope (in our case snowfields). Before the Sporaturm, you cross to the right to iron steps that lead down a wall (not quite easy to find). You follow trail traces and cairns, some off-trail terrain with as little elevation loss as possible towards Drusator. After a former customs hut, there is another 150 m ascent on a marked path to the Drusator and from there back to the hut.
Our GPS track matches the approach and descent; the outlier happened while climbing.
Coordinates
Book recommendations for this region:
Equipment
Medium cams, small nuts, at least 10 quickdrawsLocalization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions