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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Switzerland closed

Eulengrat above Solothurn

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Dominik Schittny
  • Magnificent rock at the first belay station
    Magnificent rock at the first belay station
    Photo: Dominik Schittny, Community
This route passes through an inaccessible area and is therefore closed.
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    It is no secret that the Eulengrat offers a rewarding plaisir climbing route. Also easily accessible by public transport and with a wonderful view over the Swiss Plateau to the Alps, this trip is definitely recommended. However, if you are not familiar with the area above Solothurn, you should better inform yourself about the approach than we did... Unless you want to visit a small private hut.
    closed
    moderate
    Distance 8.3 km
    7:42 h
    1,047 m
    1,054 m
    1,202 m
    510 m

    Above Solothurn is a soon-to-be legendary multi-pitch route, about which you hear rumors again and again. Finally, I made it there myself and must say that the many stories surrounding this climb, praising it so highly, are not far from reality. Indeed, the Eulengrat offers some of the best enjoyable climbing, although the approach and descent also take some time.

    From Rüttenen, you ascend to the edge of the forest between meadows and fields. Once you reach the forest edge, depending on the chosen route, you hike a short or long way to the start of the Eulengrat. There are always signposts pointing the way. The approach is partly steep but always quite walkable.

    For those who find the approach, a true joy begins. The ridge starts relatively easy, allowing you to warm up comfortably on the first pitch. The limestone is mostly stable and repeatedly offers good holds and footholds. Bolts and anchors are in good condition, so all that remains is to enjoy the climbing on the sunny south wall.

    After the fourth pitch, you reach a small plateau from which you can admire the Alps in the far distance. Next comes a short stretch of hiking terrain. On the right, you descend a ladder and soon reach the next pitch. From here, there are repeatedly various options with differing difficulty. You cannot avoid a total of three pitches rated 5c, but if needed, it can also be a bit more demanding.

    Climbing sections and short hiking stretches alternate again and again. Except for the first hiking section with the ladder, you can also stay roped in and either secure yourself from anchor to anchor or climb together on the rope. After a total of nine pitches, unfortunately, the fun is over. To find the descent, you go more or less off-trail upwards until you reach a clearly visible path. You then follow this path down to the left.

    Author’s recommendation

    From the climbing route, you have an impressive view over the entire Swiss Plateau to the Alps on a clear day. Don’t forget your camera!
    Difficulty
    VI5c moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    1,202 m
    Lowest point
    510 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    280 m
    Climbing length
    200 m
    Descent
    530 m
    Belay stations
    with anchor point for abseiling, with bolts
    Protection
    with bolts
    Rope length
    1 x 50 m
    Number of quickdraws
    10

    Track types

    Asphalt 14.41%Forested/wild trail 21.60%Path 40.39%Road 1.09%Unknown 22.48%
    Asphalt
    1.2 km
    Forested/wild trail
    1.8 km
    Path
    3.3 km
    Road
    91 m
    Unknown
    1.9 km
    Show elevation profile

    Roadbook

    I better don’t venture out on the branches here... After all, we got pretty lost. As a tip, I can say that the topo from the climbing guidebook is not necessarily sufficient to find the correct approach. A topo map of this area should be consulted. Unless you enjoy carrying kilometers of aluminum unnecessarily many vertical meters up and then again down to the start of the climbing route... ;-)
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    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    Take the train to Solothurn and continue by bus to Rüttenen.

    Coordinates

    SwissGrid
    2'607'152E 1'231'304N
    DD
    47.232623, 7.533069
    DMS
    47°13'57.4"N 7°31'59.0"E
    UTM
    32T 388961 5232058
    w3w 
    ///furnish.yards.thinkers
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Equipment

    Climbing equipment with 50m rope and 10 quickdraws. In warm weather, sun protection and drinks are recommended as the climbing wall is south-facing and usually offers no shade.

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Status
    closed
    Difficulty
    VI5c moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    8.3 km
    Duration
    7:42 h
    Ascent
    1,047 m
    Descent
    1,054 m
    Highest point
    1,202 m
    Lowest point
    510 m
    Public-transport-friendly Round trip Scenic Wall Ridge Descending on foot Pleasure Linear route

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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