Diedro Martini, Cima alle Coste, Dolomites (Sarca valley)

Approach

Easy. From the parking lot by the sports field near Dro, take the forest road towards Pietramurata. At a block area appearing on the right shortly before a wide gravel area, the path to Cima alle Coste branches off to the left at a cairn. Steeply following it leads to a slab. Crossing it and always heading towards the large corner, numerous cairns guide us to the start. There is enough space here to put on equipment.

Climbing Description

Start at the base of the large corner, climb two bulges. There is a bolt with a sling.

1st–5th pitches (IV-V+) last belay at a tree left in scree (beware of falling rocks for climbers below), 50 m are always fully climbed.

6th pitch (III+) ascending right and then turning left to a tree (well-visible footmarks in grass ledges).

7th pitch (I) ascend to the belay of “la luna e i falo‘” (well-visible sling at the foot of the wall).

8th pitch (I) free climbing to the next belay (sling directly on the path), traverse left on the path.

9th pitch (II) ascend slightly diagonally left to the next belay (sling visible from the 8th belay).

10th pitch (II) bypass shrubbery on the left and use several small trunks to reach belay after 15–20 m.

11th pitch (III) traverse right and overcome the slabby bulges slightly ascending at the weakest spots (40 m). Here starts a steeper grassy gully. Ascend holding grass tufts to the first tree belay (15 m).

12th pitch (II) follow the footmarks slightly ascending left to the base of the wall with path at a tree (right) belay (from here until the last two exit pitches, Goedeke topo applies).

13th pitch (V) briefly follow the path right, climb a ramp in a left bend and then traverse left ascending to the start of the 13th pitch (bolts); due to the previous tree belay, the 50 m are almost completely climbed.

14th pitch (VI) slightly overhanging crack flake (piazzen) (28 m). Belay under the overhang.

15th pitch (VI-) the roof at the start is grippy on the left edge, the final traversal is demanding. The holds are muddy. Be careful after rain, as it gets slippery.

16th pitch (V) chimney-like corner at the start (keep right), then big flake (piazzen); Camelot 3–4 for protection to avoid long runouts.

17th pitch (VI-) another flake and under the roof traverse left around the corner (stay low). Beautiful wooden wedge.

18th & 19th pitches (V+) climbed together (almost 50 m) to a tree shortly before the exit.

20th pitch (II) through the steep, leafy, and brittle gully to the exit (plateau with tree).

Descent

Follow the cairns at the exit northwards for about 20 m to reach a forest road immediately. Follow it on the left hand always keeping left along the wall edge and encounter hiking trail 425 towards Dro. Descend sometimes steeply. Once back in the valley, turn left and soon reach the junction to the parking lot.