The climbing takes place on slabs, chimneys, and corners. It does not always follow the logical line. Some experience in route finding is recommended.
The descent is not easy to find, especially at the third rappel spot "eyes open".
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Roadbook
Approach:
Since 2023, parking is no longer allowed at the first hairpin before the Grödnerjoch. The parking spaces have been barricaded with earth banks.
The track was created afterwards!
From the Grödnerjoch, follow the wide track past the Hotel Cir, at the fork turn left onto trail 2B, always heading towards the signposts "Große Cirspitze". On trail 12, after about 200-300 meters, take the climb path on the left to the forepart of the southeast edge of the Große Cirspitze. Shortly below the start of the SE edge of the Gr. Cirspitze, traverse eastwards, partially tricky (II), cross a scree gully to the start (45 minutes)
Climbing:
1st pitch: From the carved starting arrow, ascend the crack going left and after a few meters traverse left (above is a yellow ledge) about 5-6 meters and climb towards the branching cracks. Where the cracks branch (1 bolt), go left (1 bolt) to a starting gully and climb it up to a belay (cemented bolt) on a ledge heading off left (30m, 2 bolts, IV)
2nd pitch: Right around the edge and up the immediately adjacent chimney, a few meters of inclined terrain to a corner, climb it and traverse grassy rock to the left to the belay at 2 bolts (25m, IV-)
3rd pitch: Right towards the gully and climb it, where the place narrows right 1 bolt and right to the belay (2 bolts) below a corner (25m, IV, 1 bolt)
4th pitch: Climb the corner and at the 2nd bolt move to the right wall and easily right to the belay (cemented bolt) (20m, 2 bolts, IV)
5th pitch: Climb the chimney left and at the end traverse left 3 m and climb the visible crack/corner to the summit (45m, IV-)
Descent:
From the summit without a cross head west into the gorge between Clarkspitze and Große Cirspitze rappelling twice (25 and 20 m). About 15 meters down northwest climb down to another hidden rappel spot (behind a block). Rappel twice more (15 and 25 m, sling belay). In the saddle between Gr. Cirspitze and Clarkspitze now descend about 100 m north towards the Chedultal (September 2016, no trail marks) and then right (descent direction, east) lightly ascending around the Clarkspitze (trail marks) finally ascend about 100 m south to the fence visible from below towards the saddle (Clarkspitze is on the right). Now down the gully without a path to the Jimmyhütte and continue on trail 2 (Dolomitenhöhenweg 2) back to the start point.
Grödner Joch (2120 m.ü.M.)
Kostenpflichtiger Parkplatz Grödner Joch
Das Grödner Joch (2121m)
Klettersteig Große Cirspitze
Einstieg Cirspitze
Der Gipfel der Großen Cirspitze
Große Cirspitze (2.592m)
Cirspitze Große
Bergstation Seilbahn Plans-Frara
Directions
From Corvara:
The SS243 towards Grödnerjoch.
From Wolkenstein:
First take the SS242 towards Grödnerjoch and from Plan de Gralba continue on the SS243 to Grödnerjoch.
Parking
1st hairpin bend from the Gardena Pass towards CorvaraCoordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
NAA and slings to straighten the rope line, as well as Camelots up to size 1Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions