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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Dolomites

Clarkspitze, southwest edge

Responsible for this content
DAV Sektion Duisburg Verified partner 
  • Ascent and descent path (right)
    Ascent and descent path (right)
    Photo: Oliver Knorre, DAV Sektion Duisburg

Selected alternatives for you
    Beautiful climbing next to the rather well-known Große Cirspitze on partially to be cleaned rock.
    moderate
    Distance 3 km
    5:00 h
    416 m
    422 m
    2,490 m
    2,117 m

    The climbing takes place on slabs, chimneys, and corners. It does not always follow the logical line. Some experience in route finding is recommended. 

    The descent is not easy to find, especially at the third rappel spot "eyes open". 

    Difficulty
    IV moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    Clarkspitze, 2,490 m
    Lowest point
    Hairpin before the Grödnerjoch, 2,117 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
    Apr
    May
    Jun
    Jul
    Aug
    Sep
    Oct
    Nov
    Dec
    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    300 m, 0:45 h
    Wall height
    120 m
    Climbing length
    145 m, 3:00 h
    Descent
    500 m, 1:30 h
    Belay stations
    pitons, trad gear
    Protection
    pitons, trad gear
    Rope length
    2 x 60 m
    Number of quickdraws
    6
    First ascent
    V. Neri and A. Lombardini 1927

    Track types

    Asphalt 4.02%Dirt road 31.90%Forested/wild trail 15.43%Path 21.43%Road 0.27%Unknown 26.92%
    Asphalt
    121 m
    Dirt road
    960 m
    Forested/wild trail
    464 m
    Path
    645 m
    Road
    8 m
    Unknown
    810 m
    Show elevation profile

    Roadbook

    Approach:

    Since 2023, parking is no longer allowed at the first hairpin before the Grödnerjoch. The parking spaces have been barricaded with earth banks.

    The track was created afterwards!

    From the Grödnerjoch, follow the wide track past the Hotel Cir, at the fork turn left onto trail 2B, always heading towards the signposts "Große Cirspitze". On trail 12, after about 200-300 meters, take the climb path on the left to the forepart of the southeast edge of the Große Cirspitze. Shortly below the start of the SE edge of the Gr. Cirspitze, traverse eastwards, partially tricky (II), cross a scree gully to the start (45 minutes)

    Climbing:

    1st pitch: From the carved starting arrow, ascend the crack going left and after a few meters traverse left (above is a yellow ledge) about 5-6 meters and climb towards the branching cracks. Where the cracks branch (1 bolt), go left (1 bolt) to a starting gully and climb it up to a belay (cemented bolt) on a ledge heading off left (30m, 2 bolts, IV)

    2nd pitch: Right around the edge and up the immediately adjacent chimney, a few meters of inclined terrain to a corner, climb it and traverse grassy rock to the left to the belay at 2 bolts (25m, IV-)

    3rd pitch: Right towards the gully and climb it, where the place narrows right 1 bolt and right to the belay (2 bolts) below a corner (25m, IV, 1 bolt)

    4th pitch: Climb the corner and at the 2nd bolt move to the right wall and easily right to the belay (cemented bolt) (20m, 2 bolts, IV)

    5th pitch: Climb the chimney left and at the end traverse left 3 m and climb the visible crack/corner to the summit (45m, IV-)

    Descent:

    From the summit without a cross head west into the gorge between Clarkspitze and Große Cirspitze rappelling twice (25 and 20 m). About 15 meters down northwest climb down to another hidden rappel spot (behind a block). Rappel twice more (15 and 25 m, sling belay). In the saddle between Gr. Cirspitze and Clarkspitze now descend about 100 m north towards the Chedultal (September 2016, no trail marks) and then right (descent direction, east) lightly ascending around the Clarkspitze (trail marks) finally ascend about 100 m south to the fence visible from below towards the saddle (Clarkspitze is on the right). Now down the gully without a path to the Jimmyhütte and continue on trail 2 (Dolomitenhöhenweg 2) back to the start point.

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
    High point
    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
    show {x} more
    Photo
    Video
    Grödner Joch
    Grödner Joch (2120 m.ü.M.)
    Kostenpflichtiger Parkplatz Grödner Joch
    Das Grödner Joch (2121m)
    Klettersteig Große Cirspitze
    Einstieg Cirspitze
    Der Gipfel der Großen Cirspitze
    Große Cirspitze (2.592m)
    Cirspitze Große
    Bergstation Seilbahn Plans-Frara

    Directions

    From Corvara:

    The SS243 towards Grödnerjoch.

    From Wolkenstein:

    First take the SS242 towards Grödnerjoch and from Plan de Gralba continue on the SS243 to Grödnerjoch.

    Parking

    1st hairpin bend from the Gardena Pass towards Corvara

    Coordinates

    DD
    46.549868, 11.808458
    DMS
    46°32'59.5"N 11°48'30.4"E
    UTM
    32T 715296 5158976
    w3w 
    ///drainer.petrified.obsessions
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Climbing in Gröden, Volume 1, Mauro Bernardi, Atesia Verlag

    Author’s map recommendations

    Tobacco, No. 07, 1:25,000

    Recommended maps for this region:

    Show more

    Equipment

    NAA and slings to straighten the rope line, as well as Camelots up to size 1

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    IV moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    3 km
    Duration
    5:00 h
    Ascent
    416 m
    Descent
    422 m
    Highest point
    2,490 m
    Lowest point
    2,117 m

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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