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Capanna dell'AlbignaPhoto: Bregaglia Maloja Turismo, Bregaglia Maloja Turismo
The Cima di Castello, at 3379 m, is the highest Bergell peak and dominates the Forno, Albigna, and Mello valleys (on the Italian side).
This beautiful peak drops in steep walls to the east and south. To the west, gentle snow slopes descend to the Vadrec da l' Albigna. The south wall offers interesting and difficult climbing routes.
The name is attributed to the rectangular shape, as it appears to the viewer mainly from the Forno valley or Monte Disgrazia. From the snowcap that forms the summit, the panoramic view in all directions is very interesting, as it is a central point in the Masino-Bergell group. The ascent starts from the Albigna hut and largely goes over glaciers, the last slope is very steep.
Author’s recommendation
When in doubt, always hire a mountain guide.
WB / The glacier must be crossed in a roped team with caution in choosing the path.
Rope, crampons, and ice axe are indispensable.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Albigna hut SACSafety information
WB / The glacier must be crossed in a roped team with caution in choosing the path.
Rope, crampons, and ice axe are indispensable.
Roadbook
From the hut, you descend and cross the torrent of the Vadrec dal Cantun. The path continues, embedded in the rocks on the east shore of the reservoir. Along this section the route goes up and down and is partially equipped with metal ladders and railings. After bypassing the last rocky outcrop that forms the base of Punta Albigna, turn left and climb a steep scree slope to a moraine ridge.
You keep to the northern edge of the basin between the ridges descending from Cima dal Cantun and Cima di Castello, which is occupied by the Vadrecdal Castel Nord. The small path following the moraine ridge ends at the foot of a rock wall. At this point, you climb onto the glacier and take care with crevasses. On reaching the upper part, which is wider and flatter, you head towards the pronounced saddle at the base of the summit section of Cima di Castello, called Bocchetta dal Castel (3106 m). You cross the saddle and reach the opposite side, where you meet the ascent route from the Bonacossa hut in Val di Zocca. Only the last slope (about 40°) remains to be carefully overcome to reach the highest point of the snow dome, the summit of Cima di Castello. The descent is along the same route.
Albigna dam
Albigna hut SAC
Cima di Castello
Public transport
Arrivals - Bregaglia Engadin TurismoDirections
Arrivals - Bregaglia Engadin TurismoCoordinates
Book recommendations for this region:
Equipment
Rope, crampons, and ice axe are indispensable.
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions