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Route of the Via ClassicaPhoto: Roland Aufschnaiter, alpenvereinaktiv Redaktion
Perfect granite, great cracks for self-protection, bolted belays and a great view make Via Classica a true pleasure route. The route can be very well protected throughout and occasionally bolt anchors can be found. The belays are well set up.
If you pay attention to the rope line, the first two pitches as well as pitches 6 and 7 can be combined.
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
AlbignahütteSafety information
Watch out for other rope teams when descending! Loose scree!Roadbook
Approach:
From the hut, do not take the path towards Pass da Casnil but take the path to the right towards Vadret dal Cantun. The trail is eventually only marked with cairns and finally leads over boulders to the Bio-Pillar.
Start:
The route name is posted
Route description:
After the first two starting pitches and the short grassy ledge, always follow the logical crack line. After the 7th pitch, go from the belay (next to the large roof) out to the left. Straight ahead would be 6b. The last meters go easily over a broad ridge to the summit.
Descent:
From the summit go a few meters north to a small saddle and then descend eastwards through a gully. Watch out for loose stones when other rope teams are descending.
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
From Chur by Rhaetian Railway to St. Moritz, and then by PostAuto (every 1-2 hours) to the Pranzaira stop.
Directions
Arriving from the north (Germany and Austria), leave the A12 - Inntal motorway at Landeck and drive always in the Inn valley to St. Moritz. Continue over the Maloja Pass and down switchbacks to Pranzaira, where the cable car station is located directly next to the road.Parking
Free parking at the cable car stationCoordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
Book recommendations for this region:
Equipment
Alpine climbing equipment with at least 50 m half ropes, 10 quickdraws, Camalots 0.5 - 3Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions