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recommended route
Alpine Climbing
· Garda Trentino
"Amazzonia" - Piccolo Dain/Parete del Limaro
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TOPO AmazzoniaPhoto: Christian Resch, Alpenverein Spittal/Drau
Are you looking for an entertaining half-day activity and the option for more multi-pitch routes?
Then you should study this route suggestion more closely...
Amazzonia is a well-protected sport climbing route, paired with an unusually short approach and a quick and enjoyable descent.
The route is in the west face of Parete del Limaro, very easy to find and - except for the initial traverse pitches - extremely consistent and refreshing! However, the 9th pitch stands out clearly due to its prolonged technical difficulties and leaves lasting impressions!
The route is excellently protected with old, cemented pitons - which can be easily found every 2-6m. The belay stations are always on two fixed points; no mobile protection is necessary!
After completing it, you can directly append the "Le Strane Voglie di Amelie", which is only a few minutes' walk from the exit of the just climbed route...
The descent to Sarche is easy to find; the charming path leads directly into the valley. From there, you can immediately start on the next of the total 10 routes on this wall to make the most of your day!
A beautiful and rewarding climbing route with grippy slab sections and a tricky crux. A lucrative part-time pleasure for easy-going sport climbers!
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Show elevation profileRest stops
Hosteria ToblinoSafety information
Despite the many ascents, rockfall - especially from preceding rope teams - is continually a major issue on this wall! Much rubble still lies on the ledges and bands...
Otherwise, a top route with perfect protection and partly chain anchors!
Extremely short approach and comfortable descent via a hiking path.
Rappelling down the route is NOT recommended!
Tips and suggestions
Immediately after the exit, the route "Le Strane Voglie di Amelie" can be appended, also a rewarding multi-pitch route in the sixth UIAA grade.
https://www.alpenvereinaktiv.com/de/tour/piccolo-dain-le-strane-voglie-di-amelie/50517480/
Other routes on the wall:
Via Stenghel/Grill VI+
Via razzismo dal mondo VI+
Orizzonti Dolomitci V+
Moon Bears VI
Via Pralaya VII+
Via La Scuola Pitagorica di Hans Dülfer VII
Via dei 2 Alberi VII-
Le Strane Voglie di Amelie VI
Roadbook
APPROACH:
From the roundabout in front of Bar Ideal on Via Caffaro (SS237) heading west. Then cross the road before the bridge and go back a few meters to turn onto the driveway via the pedestrian crossing. Continue along this until the end at the power plant gate. The entry point is directly in front of the large cabinet gate.
Along the route according to TOPO - 10 pitches.
DESCENT:
Follow the path that starts at the exit uphill until it joins a marked hiking trail. Follow this downhill to Sarche. The starting point is reached again in 40 minutes!
Sarche di Lasino
Chiesa della Madonna del Carmine
Sarca-Brücke
Azienda Agricola Salvetta
Hosteria Toblino
Via Attrezzata Rino Pisetta
Einstieg Klettertouren Amazzonia, Orizzonti Dolomitici und Moon Bears
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
Bus line 205
TRENTO-VEZZANO-SARCHE-DRO-ARCO-RIVA
Directions
From the north:
Take the Brenner motorway A22, exit at Trento Nord and turn right towards Riva del Garda on SS45 into the Sarca valley to Sarche.
Park in the town center - near the junction to Madonna di Campiglio.
From the south:
From Arco take SS45 northbound (Trento) to Sarche.
Parking
At the large parking lot in front of the Orvea supermarket - in the town center - there are some free parking spaces!Coordinates
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Normal alpine climbing gear with 60m single rope, 14 quickdraws - some of which should be extendable to reduce rope drag, 2 anchor slings, belay device & helmet!Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions