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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Montafon

Alpine climbing north corner 3rd Kirchlispitze

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Patrick Spinner
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    Beautiful multi-pitch route for practicing alpine climbing with mountaineering boots. From Lünersee on foot towards Schweizer Tor. At the base of the Kirchlispitzen group, via the north corner of the 3rd Kirchlispitze in 5 pitches, maximum difficulty 4 grade, onto the ridge. Abseil and return the same way.
    moderate
    Distance 10.9 km
    1:57 h
    727 m
    739 m
    2,523 m
    1,976 m
    From the mountain station of the Lünerseebahn, follow the circular path to the left towards Lünerseealpe. Shortly before the alp, turn left towards Schweizer Tor. Follow the path until the Kirchlie group is visible on the right side of the path. To the right over loose terrain and snow to the entry point of the wall. A path is partly visible, otherwise head directly in short zigzags to the lowest point of the wall. Up to here about 1:15h. The corner is the 2nd last and very well recognizable due to its light rock. It is still recommended to look at pictures beforehand for safety. There was no one in the wall to guide us. At the beginning, climb about 60m at grades 1-2. Over the back of the first rock. Still unroped here. One bolt along the pitch. At the base of the corner there is directly a belay station and enough space for 2 people to set up equipment. If there are more groups in the wall, it is recommended to put on the helmet earlier, as there is a lot of loose rock and danger of rockfall. From the belay station, climb about 40m at grade 3 upwards. Always along the corner. Many small holds, otherwise climbing by friction. The 2nd pitch starts with a 4+, well protected with bolts, 45m long. Then it becomes easier, more like a 3. Climb easier right of the corner over slabs and small cracks. The belay station is a cord fixed to 3 bolts. The 3rd pitch runs directly along the corner again. A 4- along the entire 40m. It is tempting here to move right into a large crack, but there are no protections in the crack. There are enough bolts if not overlooked. At the end of the route there are 2 belays, one directly along the route and one a bit to the right, this one looked newer and more reliable. The 4th pitch is more relaxed and about 50m at 3+. It goes slightly right of the corner under the overhang, then slightly left towards a large cave. The belay is at the cave. The 5th and last pitch is a 3-. A small cam comes after about 30m along the 50m pitch, so choose the line that suits you best. The belay is on top of the ridge. From the ridge you can go left up the towers to the summit, a bolt is discovered at the bottom of the wall, no other protections seen. You can also traverse at the same level, again without protection, and then descend via the hiking trail. Since it was late, we decided to abseil. If you are not confident climbing grade 3, you should abseil from the first belay down to the cave. A 60m rope reaches about 3m above the belay; the rest must be downclimbed. From here, almost fully use the 30m until a bolt or belay is reached. To the 3rd belay we downclimbed about 10m again. From here abseil the rest with intermediate belays at the bolts. Watch carefully when abseiling. Then descend along the ascent route. Allow enough time. We had to jog from the wall to the gondola, so we only needed 35 min. The gondola runs until 5 pm. Descending on foot takes about 45 min. The route is very well protected. We climbed in mountaineering boots as training for future undertakings. In climbing shoes you are probably faster.
    Difficulty
    IV moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    2,523 m
    Lowest point
    1,976 m
    Best time of year
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Belay stations
    with anchor point for abseiling, with bolts
    Protection
    with bolts
    Rope length
    1 x 50 m
    Number of quickdraws
    7

    Track types

    Length
    10.9 km
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    Coordinates

    DD
    47.059387, 9.754263
    DMS
    47°03'33.8"N 9°45'15.3"E
    UTM
    32T 557279 5212039
    w3w 
    ///spacings.modems.resume
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    Equipment

    Complete climbing equipment Helmet, 50m rope, 7 quickdraws, tuber, short prusik, 4 HMS carabiners, 120 cm sling

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

    User Questions


    August 31, 2025
    Patrick Spinner
    Hallo, Wir hatten ein 60m Seil dabei, ich hab es jetzt auch in der Beschreibung geändert. Tut mir leid für die falsche Info. Daher Doppel 60m reicht aufjedenfall. Und bis auf das Abseilen vom ersten Stand. Ging es mit einem 60m Seil ohne Probleme. Wir haben uns dazu entscheiden abzuklettern. Sonst kann man sich auch zu dem Keil abseilen und von dort dann weiter.

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    Difficulty
    IV moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    10.9 km
    Duration
    1:57 h
    Ascent
    727 m
    Descent
    739 m
    Highest point
    2,523 m
    Lowest point
    1,976 m
    Summit route Scenic Wall Round trip Slab Descending on foot Pleasure Abseil Out and back

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