Zéngia del Viàl from Val del Mulàt to the southern gully between the two Uselóin

Premise

This route was traveled on July 2, 2021, and all subsequent observations and considerations fully apply only to that day.

The field reference guide – with photocopies in pocket – is "Dolomiti di Zoldo 61 hikes between Pelmo and Civetta" by Paolo Bonetti and Paolo Lazzarin.

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Approach to the base of Val del Mulàt

From the parking lot, take the path heading towards Rifugio Bosconero and turn at the junction towards Casera del Mugón: there is a blue sign reading "Kaśèra Muḡon".

From Casera del Mugón continue on the CAI 491 path connecting with a few meters of descent to the dirt road encountered and, with a turn at another marked junction, arrive at Casera de Fagarè.

At Casera de Fagarè continue on the path passing to the left direction of arrival, and after a little more than 100 linear meters of walking you cross a small valley with a Val del Mulàt sign: here you need to leave the marked CAI trail.

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Ascent of Val del Mulàt up to the exit point towards the start of Zéngia del Viàl

From the Val del Mulàt sign you need to cut freely through the forest northwards towards the gap in the rock band visible even with the forest at peak green growth as today.

Here I initially veered a bit to the right to follow some animal tracks, then proceeded more directly to enter the stone-lined gully at the base of the narrow section in the rock band.

Entering the "canyon" you easily climb a short section on boulders and arrive below the first waterfall to be overcome.

On the right in arrival direction there is a small rock step opening onto a VERY steep, partly stepped grassy slope, where from below some possible "viàz" type lines are visible leading to the small forest above.

The first move is almost vertical but there is a hold where you can insert your entire right hand and have no problems.

The upper part is more delicate and very exposed, which proceeding you realize is steeper than it looks from below.

I initially moved left onto an intermediate rocky terrace beside the waterfall, then diagonally right on a "start of a trace" entering the small forest.

In the small forest a real little path begins, with still steep sections, up to the height of the second waterfall; here you are always on the right side climbing the gully.

The little path reaches, height-wise, the upper edge of the second waterfall but shifted to the right, and you have to enter the gully with a DELICATE traverse a few meters to the left: there are holds, although EXPOSED and not full-footprint friendly.

Above the second waterfall the difficulties in Val del Mulàt end – now you climb a valley and not a narrow channel as up to this point.

At this point the guide says "... you continue through a beautiful sparse forest, ascending to about 1400 meters, where you begin to traverse almost horizontally to the right (East) on a steep forested slope topped by a rock band. Thus you reach the ridge giving access to the main Uselóin wall (1400 m)".

Previously the guide gave Casera de Fagarè at the official altitude of 1103 meters and so I calibrated my barometric altimeter accordingly.

Ascending the sparse forest beyond the second waterfall of Val del Mulàt I saw two close rock bands with typical base rock band traces.

The first band is less evident and just above 1350 meters, the second is higher, clearer, with a more evident trace: THE CORRECT ONE IS THE FIRST LESS EVIDENT BAND ENCOUNTERED LOWER DOWN.

At about 1370 meters (starting from 1103 of Casera del Fagarè), in the middle of the valley there is a conspicuous cairn resting on the uphill side of a tree trunk – from this cairn a faint trace is visible descending slightly to touch the base of the first and lower rock band; since initially you lose only a few meters of altitude, in hindsight and knowing the route, it would be possible to cut a bit below the cairn, but it is not the saving of about ten meters of altitude that makes a difference.

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Route of the connection from the exit of Val del Mulàt to the beginning of the Zéngia del Viàl

After losing the first few meters of altitude from the cairn, continue along the forest shelf maintaining the level as written in the guide.

You should not stay close to the rock band and you find some walking lines on the fairly steep slope.

At the end of the traverse, the forest shelf narrows and, as always where lines become almost mandatory for animals and humans, a small path appears moving toward the rock band until the "point of the shelf" which ends on the ridge providing access to the vertical wall where the Zéngia del Viàl begins.

During the traverse, a couple of splits in the rock band are visible that would allow access to the shelf below the upper rock band: you must ignore them and continue always at the same level.

The guide notes a small larch growing right on the ridge where the ledge's cornice begins: there is a small larch with a small fir behind it.

At the end, the exit altitude from Val del Mulàt is almost identical to the beginning of the ledge as per the guide, but I measured a lower "altitude number".

According to my GPS, from the cairn to the small starting larch there are about 240 meters "as the crow flies", so a bit more walking.

The last meters to reach the two small trees (the extreme point of the shelf) are already well exposed: it is advisable to stop a bit earlier to get set and then continue to the start attack of the initial cornice of the Zéngia del Viàl.

Trekking poles, for those who used them until here, are now harmful and it is better to leave them without hanging them on the backpack.

The backpack must be as compact as possible without superfluous items.

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Route of the Zéngia del Viàl

The ledge is divided into two with a small final extension.

According to the guide it is 80 meters of cornice plus about 200 meters of shelf up to the "goat pasture", then you can continue for a few tens of meters up to the gully descending from the separation between the two Uselóin.

You enter the cornice passing between the larch and the rock band ending the approach shelf.

For the whole part of the cornice I do not write anything about exposure because … it is better not to look at what is on the side.

You start moving at a cat's step under an overhanging roof, and reach a step leading onto a cornice dip where you proceed upright at the wall's edge on sufficient holds – be careful of any small stones or various dirt on the holds.

After the dip you turn a small ridge, and there are some steps with lichens on a section tending to "push out", but there is a way to hold on.

You arrive at the most difficult outward point that on the return is no longer difficult.

Here you find a piton with a cord loop useful for belaying.

In my opinion, the loop is not suitable for simply hanging on and helping yourself in the descent of the next "crooked step", as there is a risk of losing balance outwards – to use it properly you need a piece of rope and you can easily secure yourself even solo.

I descended staying very close to the wall and making use of small holds: very small but solid.

Before descending I had attached one of my slings to the loop thinking it would be useful for the return, but in fact it is not necessary.

After this, with a few meters all outside on a narrow but obvious walk you enter the shelf section.

The shelf is clearly – seen from … where one comes from – suspended in the void, but it is always wide enough and almost always protected by vegetation except for a few meters, the only points where you can have a panoramic view outside.

(Obviously from the cornice you could always have a panoramic outside view, but … it is not simple to look out … 😊)

If you stay, logically and by the dashed trail, close to the wall there are no problems.

At a certain point, below the wall, there is a small spring, hard to spot – I noticed because I felt my shoe sink into mud: naturally a low shoe … 😡

Shortly before the end you arrive at a nice recess and then to the "goat pasture".

The guide, marking the pasture, is from 1986 and now after 35 years the pasture is a copse of young trees but still with an herbaceous base: perhaps in another 35 years the herbaceous base will have disappeared.

This conventionally marks the end of the Zéngia del Viàl, but you can continue up to the entry into the gully descending from the separation between the two Uselóin.

Be careful on this short traverse as it is on a well-inclined lateral slope and not protected by vegetation.

Here, today, I began to "feel" moisture under the walkable line, and the arrival point in the spectacular gully was on tall, very wet and very slippery grass.

I took some souvenir photos and immediately returned to the recess to rest comfortably for the necessary snack break.

The only note for the return is the passage of the piton with cord loop now tackled upwards.

There are clear holds outwards which are well used "partially turning your back to the void".

I think it is useless and dangerous to look for them on the outward journey if not secured, it is really difficult to see or "feel" them: but to each their own choices.

On the return I passed without problems.

If you cross the ledge in a small group, organizing a short belay on the way out dispels all concerns.

The guide recommends "... usually 1 or 2 pitons for possible belaying": one is already there (always check) where needed and then decide case by case.

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Today's closing of the hike returning in Val del Mulàt

From the cairn exit towards the Zéngia del Viàl upwards, Val del Mulàt is easy, and you reach the CAI trails just after Forzèla de la Val del Mulàt with a slope progressively softening.

Here I turned left for CAI 489 following at the various turns always the signs to Casera Pra de Val.

Well before reaching Casera Pra de Val, you enter a forest clearing "created" by the Vaia Storm and cleared of fallen trunks: here are a "Pian del Traf" sign and the junction with a left turn for the Triòl del Camillo Nature Trail.

Following the upper part of the Triòl del Camillo, with some ups and downs you return to Casera de Fagarè below the entrance to Val del Mulàt and then to the starting parking passing again by Casera del Mugón.