History route - on the trail of history

Once you land at Peschiera Maraglio, turn left and reach the Monte Isola Infopoint.

Raising your gaze, you will notice that the ceiling is very particular: a boat is embedded in it. All that remains is to go up to the first floor for our first stop: the Museum of Tradition. With a bit of imagination, we board the boat and begin our journey into the past. On foot, instead, we leave the Infopoint and take the alley adjacent to the building. We are in the village: narrow alleys and steep staircases separate the houses leaning against each other; the entrance doors are open, as a sign of welcome, as if they were waiting for us. A few steps and we reach the Parish Church of San Michele and the adjoining Oratory of San Rocco, which hosts a cycle of frescoes recently restored and attributed to the Brescian artist Romanino.

But this is just the beginning, so we need to move: the third stop awaits us. We reach it quickly along the lakeside promenade leading to Sensole, stage of the most beautiful and majestic installation ever made on Lake Iseo: The Floating Piers. In 2016, the floating walkways covered with a shimmering yellow fabric kept the spotlight on us for 16 days from all over the world! The installation was temporary and no longer exists, but another wonder has taken its place: the vegetation. Of moving beauty, typically Mediterranean, thanks to the island’s microclimate, it offers olive groves, palms, orange blossoms, aloe, bougainvillea, oranges, and lemons, in gardens and along the white walls of the houses with blue and green shutters. At the same time, on our left appears the islet of San Paolo, with its austere villa and lush park. Imagine! During The Floating Piers, it was possible to reach it on foot and admire it up close.

We resume our journey. If we raise our gaze, we see in the distance among the trees a mighty circular tower: it is the Rocca Oldofredi-Martinengo, and that is exactly where we are heading. We get there by taking a right at the entrance of the village of Menzino, a narrow mule track that, crossing the woods, leads us to what was once a drawbridge. Alas, the villa is private and not visitable, except on FAI days or cultural initiatives of the island. Everything we need to know, however, is told to us at the entrance by explanatory panels.

We say goodbye to the Rocca and continue our route towards the Sanctuary of Madonna della Ceriola. Yes, we still climb, but it’s worth it! Along the way, at Senzano, a short stop at the Church of San Severino allows us to catch our breath. Raising our gaze, we notice that the sanctuary’s bell tower watches us from above and follows our slow progress. The sign indicating "Cure" tells us we are on the right path. Come on, we’re almost there! About fifteen minutes and we are on the roof of the island and of the mountain. It was worth it, right? Let’s enjoy the view and observe nature: now there are chestnut trees and the air is fresher. Next to the church, there is a small refreshment point: let’s refresh ourselves with a platter of cured meats and a glass of local wine. Cheers!

Only one more, though, because our journey is not over yet. Now we go down. The path leading to Siviano, passing through Masse and Olzano, is of moving beauty. The island you don’t expect, the island few see, because almost everyone stops by the lake or goes up to Cure by shuttle. It is a succession of flowered meadows, vineyards, olive groves, orchards, framed by the lake and the Prealps, with the highest peaks still snow-covered. A paradise! Every step a detail, every detail an emotion. In the small village of Masse, we find almost hidden the Church of San Rocco and a fountain. Especially in summer, it is much appreciated.

We continue downhill towards Siviano. It is the imposing Parish Church of Saints Faustino and Giovita that welcomes us, with the airy terrace dominating the village from above. And then further down to Porto, where another jewel of the island awaits us: Villa Ferrata. In Porto is also the Museum of the Net, a private collection of tools and various objects about the history of Monte Isola. Are you tired? We’re almost there. We climb along the wall of Villa Ferrata and then again down towards Carzano, to the left. After about fifteen minutes, we reach the village of the Feast of Santa Croce and the Parish Church of San Giovanni Battista, our last stop.

Another half hour on flat land and we are back in Peschiera Maraglio; probably tired, but certainly satisfied.