Val Pegolèra - Ascent of Bus de le Néole - Bivacco Le Mandre

Premise

This route was traveled on October 13, 2017, and all subsequent observations and considerations fully apply only to that day.

In this detailed report, the term «guide» refers to → “Monti del Sole e Piz de Mezodì”, anthology curated by Pietro Sommavilla and Luca Celi.

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Ascent of Val Pegolera up to the base of Bus de le Neole

The ascent of Val Pegolera begins on the same right hydrographic bank route (or left in ascent direction) used to go to Forzèla de le Coraie – see route → Forzèla de le Coraie and Forzèla dei Pón da La Muda to Gena Bassa.

From La Muda, cross the bridge over the Cordevole Stream and follow the dirt road south until passing the bridge at the entrance of Val Pegolera.

A few meters after the bridge, marked by a cairn, there is the deviation onto the narrow path ascending the right orographic side of the valley.

The narrow path is not difficult to follow, there are some marks (including CAI type since it is number 871) and the grassy stretches are short and one quickly finds the way again.

The only problem in this initial part is some fallen trees to bypass right at the hairpin turns of the track: nothing difficult, just a bit annoying.

Thus, following a varied path, you reach the fork, signposted by arrows, between Forcella delle Coraie and Forcella Zana.

At the fork with signs “F.LLA CORAIE – F.LLA ZANA” continue towards Forcella Zana (always high and parallel to the valley bottom on the right hydrographic side) up to a “theoretically clear” point where some red marks and a small red arrow indicate descending a small slope to the valley bed.

I wrote “theoretically” because if you look carefully there are other indications – but much less evident – also for continuing straight.

The right choice is to descend and leave the route for Forcella Zana because … it is wrong for the aim of this hike and also because, according to the guide, it is partly collapsed with a dangerous section to cross.

Descent into the bed immediately passes a fun narrow passage and then a wide one to the end.

You choose your line by eye as you consider best at the moment: nothing difficult in this part in the bed, but it is LONG and will be felt in the legs.

Arriving in sight of the portal of the Bus de le Neole, there is a short steep stretch without a truly stable line to reach the base.

Maybe the best line is to stay all to the right, but I was all to the left to have a frontal view of this natural spectacle: however, it is better to have a real camera and not just a cellphone to document it all.

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Ascent of Bus de le Neole from the base to Forcella Bus de le Neole

I start by quoting the excellent description on p. 247 of the guide.

I do this for “SAFETY REASONS” and not to avoid the effort of writing something: it is a VERY DELICATE stretch and I do not want it to be misinterpreted by those who try.

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• REPORT FROM THE BOOK-GUIDE

After crossing the landslide slope, one reaches about 1620 m at the base of the right pillar (East) of the arch, where a climbing ledge begins, frequented by an evident chamois path.

Along this, beyond a recess on inclined slabs with debris (not difficult passage but exposed and tricky; some pitons allow to secure oneself), you climb onto a ridge with grass and dwarf pines at about 1660 m.

From here go horizontally right (E), beyond a debris recess, over an impressive drop, and a ledge of grass and dwarf pines; enter a steep and narrow gully and, along its grassy bottom, climb up to a rocky step at about 1700 m, below which you go right again, to a plateau above two old struck and withered larches (probably the Pósta del Làres at 1710 m).

Now, entering a groove cut in thick dwarf pines, you climb vertically and steeply along the maximum slope to short rock steps (characteristic cógol at about 1800 m, useful for shelter) and then to the southern base at about 1820 m of the Dèrla (characteristic monolith at elevation 1881 m on the southern ridge of Piz de Mèz).

Briefly, through dwarf pines leftwards, to the ridge and, on traces west of it and passing above the portal of Bus de le Néole, to the saddle (1 hour).

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• FOLLOWING ARE MY DAY IMPRESSIONS

The start, in viaz style, of the path leading to the upper access is next to the portal on the right side direction of arrival.

If you enter the cave of Bus de le Neole (… impossible not to 😊), just go down to the left brushing the wall and it’s impossible not to see the viaz.

In the first recess mentioned in the guide with pitons, the pitons seen (October 13, 2017) are two (with old cord) but a bit higher than what, in my opinion, is the optimal line for foot placement: evaluate on site what to do.

The second mentioned recess is quite scary: alone it is a gamble, hard to protect above the impressive drop; two people could secure well (there are several dwarf pines) and relatively quickly (no hurry).

With decent mountaineering experience, and two or a few more, it will be very fun: I had no orientation issues following the guide’s description.

Vertical passages are not the problem; there are perhaps one or two of grade II (always short and possibly avoidable by careful look) and several comparable to first grade, but fortunately everything solid.

The mentioned steep groove cut in thick dwarf pines is not extremely steep and the dwarf pines help a lot.

The problem is the typical “top quality viaz” environment which, although short, can cause quite some anxiety for those not used to it: with anxiety wrong decisions are made.

Arrived at Forcella Bus de le Neole, you can relax and prepare for the long and easy return.

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Ending the excursion from Forcella Bus de le Neole

Considering the crossing options, there are many possible closures.

For the loop return to La Muda passing through Bivacco Le Mandre, there are several junctions to take the right direction following maps and logic or … the GPS track (always judging and observing the territory because the GPS track is not the Gospel).

From Bivacco Le Mandre onward everything is very clear.

At the beginning of the descent from Forcella Bus de le Neole it is absolutely advisable to take the short deviation to the right leading to the upper outlet of Bus de le Neole and … think that about an hour earlier you were taking photos at the bottom of the hole well over 100 meters below.

Be careful not to lean over or make sudden moves for photos from above.