Pulpito dei Camòrz via the southwest ledge of Monte Pizzocco

Ascent to the Pulpito dei Camòrz or Pulpito dei Camosci via the southwest ledge of Monte Pizzocco

The approach begins by reaching the usual trail junction between Bivacco Palia, Monte Piz, Rifugio Casera Ere, and the normal route of Monte Pizzocco towards Pian del Lach – today I chose to ascend via the shorter route, from the upper parking lot at the no-entry barrier for Rifugio Casera Ere and passing by Bivacco Palia.

From the junction, head toward Monte Pizzocco and leave the trail at a sharp right turn at about 1,720 meters elevation.

There are faint traces that initially cross the gentle ridge in front.

Today on the way up I was slightly above the traces to find a better photo spot towards Pizzocco and Pizochèt, while on the return I took a lower and wider path... chasing (unsuccessfully) something that, in the tall grass, seemed to belong to the “mountain pheasant” category.

In any case, the traces are multiple and faint, and lead to descend about 70 meters of elevation to cross the headwaters of the left branch of Val Cavalèr – well before reaching the headwaters, the faint path continuing beyond is visible.

The path after the headwaters is fairly evident and, with some small cairns, guides beneath the high rock band always remaining close.

The key orientation point is about 300 meters in a straight line (so a bit more actual walking) from the headwaters of Val Cavalèr.

After a projecting spur, there is a vertical interruption of the right wall that leaves space to the base of a varied rock gully – and further ahead at the base of the gully to the left, some traces continue but should not be followed.

Indeed, the guide clearly indicates that you must climb a 30-meter chimney with two wedged boulders, but the actual chimney entrance is not visible from where the vertical rock band ends.

I continued a bit mistakenly, but kept looking back to understand, and I saw the chimney with the wedged boulders: I took an overall photo that I would not have taken without the mistake, then went back.

The guide indicates entering the gully by bypassing the previous spur on grassy ground: this is fine, but today I found a wet slab and started the gully a few meters further on dry rocks.

After a few meters on easy steps, you enter an “S” shaped left-right bend and reach the chimney.

It is narrow: you must have all your gear packed inside your backpack, and even squeeze your shoulders to pass.

Today it was very damp, but ascending there is no problem (descending is different).

The guide indicates two wedged boulders with passage under the first and avoiding the second on the right on good rocky holds.

I counted three, one at the beginning and two closely spaced at the end:

• The first, very tall, is passed by climbing normally the rock steps at the chimney bottom with no impediment.
• The second, has rock holds on the right that (apart from today’s high dampness) require more than easy climbing moves (French grade II+); you can pass under it (and I did) by removing your backpack and pushing it forward, almost like a “worm step”; there is a large “cord handle” wrapped around a small rear spur of the wedged boulder – it is clear that descending with a double rope you pass over here.
• The third is resting on the chimney bottom, and I passed it by climbing first on the right edge and then with a half split step to the left on easy holds.

Just above the third boulder, there is an anchor with a chain for rappelling.

The guide does not mention the chain, which must be very recent, but instead a double anchor with slings a few meters further up and shifted slightly left.

Now continue the ascent initially staying beside the rock band.

By shifting a few meters outward, you end beneath a rock step (about three meters vertical drop at the lowest point) where a cairn is visible on the upper edge: I would say solid French grade II, considering the poorly formed holds.

I faced it a bit diagonally from left to right, and it is the spot of the short additional rappel on descent.

Right after the rock step there is a series of closely spaced cairns: this is the only point on the whole ascent where closely spaced cairns appear, and I believe they serve to guide downwards to the correct point to face the rock step.

Now you remain still near the rock band and then spread out aiming for a clear meadow with some scattered dwarf pines (there is a LAST CAIRN that guides at the passage point of a steep transverse gully: on the ascent I was too high and reached the cairn from above, but it was very useful to memorize for the subsequent descent in fog).

The meadow leads under a rock step (which I believe is the one marked in the guide) moderately covered with scree: feasible but I avoided it with a double diagonal right-left route.

Then continuing fairly direct upwards toward a frontal rock band, with the fork objective – Forzèla del Cavàl – clearly visible on the right.

A bit before the rock band (as I did on ascent) or via traces under the band (which I used descending), shift completely to the right again to reach the fork.

From Forzèla del Cavàl only a few easy meters remain to the Pulpito dei Camòrz (39 meters of elevation gain according to official data, from 2,045 to 2,084 meters).

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Notes for descent from Pulpito dei Camòrz or Pulpito dei Camosci

First of all, it is good to memorize the important references on ascent: if, as today, sudden fog occurs, descent is possible but you must remember well.

I recommend especially in case of damp rocks like today, the short additional rappel that, descending, comes after the series of closely spaced cairns.

While ascending, I thought I should place a sling, but then (only descending) I saw a well-placed one and used that.

It is advisable to harness already at this point, since the “real rappel” in the chimney comes shortly thereafter.

The guide indicates a 30-meter chimney and I had a 60-meter rope with me.

Using the new chain anchor, I rappelled about 5 meters of double rope: I imagine that from the higher double anchor with slings, little rope would advance.

The chain is very well placed: the rope goes down straight and, properly guided on descent, the retrieval was very smooth despite the chimney not being exactly regular.

Warning: during retrieval, some stones fell down with the rope.