Bouldering can be done in the Ruhr Valley at various places in the remains of former quarries. There, you climb on short walls of sandstone or on the underside of higher walls. The largest and most beautiful of the areas is Avalonia, located between the towns of Wetter and Herdecke, but don't expect Fontainebleau. Far from it, in fact. Avalonia is smaller and less interesting than an average Fontainebleau sub-area.
- Number of routes: around 200.
- Level routes: 3 to 8a, mainly 4th, 5th and 6th grade bouldering routes.
- Rocks: sandstone/siltstone/claystone.
- Exposure: south-east.
- Best season: all year round. The southeastern exposure makes the area ideal for autumn, winter and spring thanks to the fast-drying rock and sunny location.
- Free access.
- - - - - - - Update October 2021 - - - - - - - - - - -.
The area is currently under restricted access following an incident - given the nature of the rock - not entirely unexpected. The municipality on whose territory Avalonia is located subsequently decided to temporarily close the area. Part of the area is now open again. The Katla Cave, Glücksdrachen and Heckenrosental sectors remain closed.
See https://boulderclub-ruhrtal.de/ for more info. "In Avalonia kam es am 11.7. zu einem Unfall mit einer verletzten Person. Nach der Rettung wurde das Gebiet durch das Ordnungsamt der Stadt Herdecke gesperrt. Ich wünsche der verletzten Person eine gute Besserung. https://www.presseportal.de/blaulicht/pm/69783/4965425"
- - - - - - - - Update October 2021 - - - - - - - - - - - - -.
Description
The Avalonia bouldering area is located on the southeastern slope above Harkortsee between the towns of Wetter and Herdecke. The rock, a compact sandstone that does not absorb water, dries extremely quickly. There is sunshine in mid-winter from sunrise to around 15:30, depending on the sector. On sunny winter days, when the leaves are off the beech trees, it quickly gets 10 degrees warmer than the air temperature at the rock. And in the summer season, the foliage of the beech forest actually provides shelter from the sun, making it still surprisingly cool.
The rock in the Ruhr Valley is composed of an alternation of solid hard layers of sandstone and thinner less solid layers that are more clayey. As a result, the rock is not equally solid everywhere. The rock properties also cause routes to evolve over time. The softer, thinner layers crumble over time, which can cause grips to disappear, or grips to become larger, or certain layers to be undermined. Keep this in mind when climbing in the area.
Parking and access
The mini-golf car park between the road and the reservoir is not for climbers. However, the parking area along the road opposite the minigolf quickly fills up with cars of boulderers and hikers. Therefore, park preferably 600 metres west of the minigolf. Then walk back along the footpath between the road and the reservoir.
The path up to the climbing area starts just next to the minigolf (see also the photo-carousel). A second path up starts exactly opposite the so-called Cuno building at Wetterstraße 111, 58313 Herdecke, Germany. The coordinates of the point where this path starts are: 51.402529, 7.409888. Follow either path diagonally up into the forest. Both paths meet at a crossroads. Here, a path bends northeast to the Katla Cave sector.
To reach the remaining higher sectors, follow the ascending path in a south-westerly direction until it makes a 180-degree turn to the right. Right next to the bend in the path, you will find the Khazad Dumm sector. Follow the path in a north-easterly direction to the remaining sectors. A second option is to follow the path past sector Katla Cave (the lower sector) after which you can follow a steep path up the slope that leads to the Kirschblütental (the easternmost upper sector).
Specific points of interest
The area is managed by Boulderclub Ruhrtal and the local Sektion of the DAV. Come here more often than once? A voluntary contribution to the Boulderclub in the form of a membership of €30/year would then be appreciated.
Setting up this area, maintaining it and negotiating with authorities and other interest groups is done by volunteers from the Boulder club and recently also the local branch of the DAV. All this costs money, time and effort. Rock and free nature is scarce in the densely populated Ruhr Valley. Therefore keep a low profile, don't shout, be tidy towards hikers and people walking the dog. Of course take your rubbish with you, even if it is not your own, and polish your grips clean and tickmarks away after bouldering.
- The rock in these old quarries is not always stable. Exemplary of this is the collapse of a substantial part of the roof of Katla Cave during a violent thunderstorm in 2014. Do not climb out into the potentially loose rock above the logical end holds of bouldering problems.
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The area manager/builder has built a toilet on the upper terrace. Need to take a shit? Then go here and not anywhere else in the forest.
Topo
The topo of the area is by Daniel Pohl. Daniel can be found in the area most weekends and you can buy the topo from him. The topo is not cheap, but there is a reason for that. Without Daniel, bouldering would not have been possible here. Daniel is the builder of the impressively large terraces and walls; he dug out the overhangs, and reinforced or broke away rock. Daniel is the 'route builder' of this area, so to speak. He tries to recoup the literally thousands of hours Daniel has put into setting up and maintaining Avalonia and the other bouldering areas in the Ruhr Valley by selling the topos.
More info on the area and Daniel Pohl:
- Boulderclub-Ruhrtal
- Der Felsenbauer
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Stone Locals | Rediscovering the Soul of Climbing A film from Patagonia where Daniel Pohl is featured extensively (04:12 - 08:33, 39:48 - 44:05, etc.).
Manage
In case of observations of dangerous situations (loose hooks), vandalism, etcetera, please contact the manager, the Boulderclub-Ruhrtal or directly Daniel Pohl when he is in the area.
Disclaimer
This area description concerns a rock climbing area located in the countryside that is only supervised to a very limited extent. The author takes no responsibility for the timeliness, accuracy, completeness or quality of the information provided here. This information represents a snapshot in time. The actual situation can and will differ from what is described here. The information represents the opinion and impression of the author. The author or operator of this site shall not be liable for any damages or disappointment (whether material or immaterial) caused by the use of the information provided on this page.
Please be aware that in this area, as in all other rock climbing areas, you climb entirely at your own risk. Rock climbing is not risk-free. Rock is not a standardised structure but an object formed by nature with all its uncertainties. Rock can break out and hooks can be unreliable. Dangerous falls and life-threatening situations cannot be ruled out. Go climbing only with sufficient knowledge and caution.
Opening times
| Monday | 00:00–24:00 |
| Tuesday | 00:00–24:00 |
| Wednesday | 00:00–24:00 |
| Thursday | 00:00–24:00 |
| Friday | 00:00–24:00 |
| Saturday | 00:00–24:00 |
| Sunday | 00:00–24:00 |
Directions
!!! Attention!!! The road between Wetter and Herdecke will be closed for most of 2020 due to construction work. The car park near the mini golf is expected to be accessible from Herdecke. More information: www.strassen.nrw.de.Parking
The car park of the mini-golf between the road and the reservoir is not intended for climbers (and often closed). However, the parking area along the road opposite the minigolf quickly fills up with cars of boulderers and hikers. Therefore, park preferably 600 metres west of the minigolf. Then walk back along the footpath between the road and the reservoir.
You can enter the address of the minigolf in the route planner: Wetterstraße 131, 58313 Herdecke, Germany. The path up to the climbing area starts just next to the minigolf (see also the photo carousel). A second path up starts exactly opposite the so-called Cuno building at Wetterstraße 111, 58313 Herdecke, Germany. The coordinates of the point where this path starts are: 51.402529, 7.409888. Follow either path diagonally up into the forest. Both paths meet at a crossroads. Here, a path bends northeast to the Katla Cave sector.
To reach the remaining higher sectors, follow the ascending path in a south-westerly direction until it makes a 180-degree turn to the right. Right next to the bend in the path, you will find the Khazad Dumm sector. Follow the path in a north-easterly direction to the remaining sectors. A second option is to follow the path past sector Katla Cave (the lower sector) after which you can follow a steep path up the slope that leads to the Kirschblütental (the easternmost upper sector).
Coordinates
Localization

User Questions