Photo: vetal1983, CC BY, Adobe Stock

The Difficulty Levels in Ice Climbing

Ice climbing refers to the ascent of an ice wall using ice tools and crampons. Whereas mixed climbing is used to refer to climbs in mixed terrain such as ice and rock. Due to a similar background, both sports have resembling techniques and equipment. In addition to the difficulty level, you should always inform yourself about the current local conditions.

The Difficulty Levels in Ice Climbing

Ice climbing is climbing on pure water ice, such as frozen waterfalls or glaciers. It is normally done with crampons and two ice tools.

WI1-, WI1, WI1+

Compact ice, 40° to 70° steep, with easy-to-place belay options.

WI2-, WI2, WI2+

Compact ice, 60° to 70° steep, with very good belay options.

WI3-, WI3, WI3+

Alternating steeper and less steep passages, compact ice, 60° to 80° steep, with good belay options.

WI4-, WI4, WI4+

Short vertical passages possible, short passages with technical features such as ice pillars possible, 80° steep, good belay options, sometimes difficult to place.

WI5-, WI5, WI5+

Longer vertical passages, short passages with technical features such as ice pillars possible, 85° to 90° steep, belay options sometimes difficult to place.

WI6-, WI6, WI6+

Continuous vertical passages tactically and mentally demanding, with technical features such as ice pillars and free-standing ice pillars, 90° steep, sometimes poor belay options.

WI7-, WI7, WI7+

Limit of what is possible, thin free-standing ice pillars, free-hanging or overhanging ice and belay options very poor or non-existent.

The Difficulty Levels in Mixed Climbing

Mixed climbing is climbing terrain that includes rock and ice. Normally done with crampons and two ice axes.

M1, M2, M3, M3+, M1-, M1+, M2-, M2+, M3-

Easy mixed terrain - not very steep, mostly still done with ice tools. Often still challenging winter mountaineering.

M4, M4+, M4-

Flat to vertical with some technical drytooling.

M5, M5+, M5-

Some areas of persistent vertical drytooling.

M6, M6+, M6-

Vertical to overhanging with difficult dry tooling.

M7, M7+, M7-

Overhanging and strong with technical drytooling. Less than 10m of difficult climbing.

M8, M8+, M8-

Some nearly horizontal overhangs requiring very powerful and technical dry tooling. Cruxes are bouldery or long.

M9, M9+, M9-

Either continuously vertical or slightly overhanging with marginal or technical holds, or a juggy roof of 2 to 3 body lengths.

M10, M10+, M10-

At least 10 meters of horizontal rock or 30 meters of overhanging dry tooling with powerful moves and no rests.

M11, M11+, M11-

A pitch of overhanging gymnastic climbing, or up to 15 meters of roof.

M12, M12-, M12+, M13-, M13, M13+, M14-, M14, M14+

Bouldery, dynamic moves and tenuous technical holds.