Hiking Trail
· Santander
Santander – Santillana del Mar – Back to the Middle Ages
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As beautiful as the route to Santander had been, the first half of this stage doesn’t offer much in the way of positive highlights. Amid the urban bustle, the route—if you know it—is fairly easy to follow, yet the signage is very sparse and can easily be missed. But as soon as we leave the city behind, things quiet down, with good viewpoints and scattered little villages. Between Mar and Barreda, however, it’s once again very urban and industrial. The last 7 km to Santillana, on the other hand, are simply wonderful—rural and peaceful. Since the footpath across the extremely narrow railroad bridge from Boo de Piélagos has been officially closed since 2016, we take the train one stop to Mogro. We have to pay on the train itself, as there are no other options outside the train. Usually, there’s no conductor on board, so the two-minute ride ends up being very inexpensive for us.▶ From the cathedral plaza in Santander 01, the Camino continues to the left along “Calle Calvo Sotelo” (the main thoroughfare). At the next intersection, the path leads us left and then right uphill. We follow Calle Alta past a hostel 02, where a large roundabout begins. We cross the roundabout to the left at the crosswalk, see a sign pointing toward Santanilla del Mar, and from there continue straight down the street. As we pass the large hospital complex, we see yellow arrows here and there. After a while, we reach a large park 03 on our right. At the end of the park, we walk straight ahead for the next 2 km or so, passing under the railroad bridge. At the town sign for Peñacastillo 04, we cross the crosswalk and turn right onto the side street. Just past the railroad bridge, turn left across the meadow; at first, it seems like a dead end, but a small path runs directly under the highway bridge. Turn right at the next street (narrow!), then turn left at the upcoming meadow. After passing under the three highway bridges, we then turn left toward Santa Cruz de Bezana 05, which is still 1.7 km away. The arrows guide us perfectly to the church, where we walk straight past the cemetery and immediately find ourselves back in idyllic farmland. At the next left turn, it’s not far to Mompía 06. We continue straight ahead and, at the next street, turn right onto the crosswalk, heading directly down to the train station, where we take the underpass to the left to reach the other side. Following the arrows to the CA-304, we keep to the right. After a while, the trail turns right 07 toward the Boo de Piélagos hostel, while the new “official” route heads up toward Arce and runs south along the highway. After a short stretch of ups and downs, we cross the railroad tracks and follow them. Soon, a sign indicates that the local hostel is just a short distance to the left, and we arrive at the town’s train station. We take the train from Boo de Piélagos 08 to Mogro, which is just one stop away. There, on the station plaza, we find a sign directing us to the “Iglesia Virgen del Monte.” At the CA-232 road that follows, however, we do not turn left toward the church but instead turn right toward Mogro itself. As we walk slowly uphill, we see pastureland to our right and, beyond it, the Río Pas, which we had just crossed by train. Although the official route turns left at the roundabout onto Calle San Martín toward the church of the same name, this route offers us a few shopping opportunities.Behind the Iglesia de San Martín de Mogro 09, we follow the road and find ourselves back on the Camino. On the way to the cemetery, we enjoy beautiful views across the Ría de Mogro. To the right behind the cemetery, we see a few houses, toward which we make our way in a semicircle. Along the way, a signpost indicates that Bárcena de Cudón is still 1.7 km away—one of the alternative routes we can take, and we do just that. More farmsteads are scattered along the way, and as soon as we’re “over the hill,” the landscape opens up. At a fork 10, we continue straight ahead on the CA-325 and head directly to Bárcena de Cudón 11 (Bar), about 500 m away. At the next road, we turn right toward Mar 12. The small chapel forms the center of this little village (Bar). From there, the arrows point us to the left; behind the soccer field, there’s a fountain. At the train station, we continue straight ahead and follow the road to the right, passing by factory buildings. We then come to the N-611, which we follow from there on. Passing two hostels and going through the town of Requejada, we arrive at the clearly visible industrial site of Barreda at the edge of town. We stay on the N-611 for another full kilometer until, at the large roundabout on the right, we cross a bridge over the tracks, pass the Solvay factory, and cross the Río Saja. We then keep to the right, walk uphill across the crosswalk, and turn left at the pharmacy onto the CA-340, leaving the urban noise behind. As we pass a fountain, the landscape quickly opens up. The pedestrian path soon narrows to a strip again and leads us through the rolling countryside. We ignore the later turnoffs toward Puente Avios and Queveda.On the outskirts of Camplengo 13, we head toward a tunnel on the main highway but turn right before reaching it, go under the road, and walk downhill toward Santillana del Mar 14, which is now only 1 km away.The public hostel is quite hidden and is located behind the Jesús Otero Museum. The hospitalero is on the second floor of the museum (open from 4:00 p.m.). Other hostels are scattered throughout the town.