Hiking Trail
· Upper Corsica
In Castagniccia—A Forest Hike in Serene Seclusion
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Difficulty
moderate
The landscape along this tour is already within the boundaries of the Parc naturel régional de Corse and invites you to explore the forested landscape of Castagniccia. This tranquil region of Corsica lies on the northeastern side between Casamozza, Ghisonaccia, and Corte and is bordered by the Golo valleys, some of which are deeply incised. On the eastern side, the mountain range with its undulating terrain extends all the way to the coast, where Moriani-Plage serves as the main town and administrative center. Narrow, winding roads lead into the region, where, in addition to magnificent chestnut forests, we also encounter old villages and numerous cultural treasures. The landscape—known in French as “Châtaigneraie”—experienced a period of prosperity particularly in the 16th and 17th centuries; Romanesque chapels and Baroque churches date from this time. At that time, the fruits of the sweet chestnut trees brought a certain degree of prosperity, as their flour was used to make bread. When wheat replaced chestnuts toward the end of the 19th century, the region fell into poverty and suffered from massive rural exodus. So today, one can rightly say that a visit to Castagniccia is a journey through the past. Its inclusion in the Corsican Nature Park has recently led to the renovation of several villages and some minor road improvements. The tourism industry recognized the area’s appeal for hiking, so old mule trails were cleared, marked, and converted into hiking trails. We begin this tour in Piedicroce 01. Here, the Baroque church of St. Pierre and St. Paul immediately catches the eye. Although only a little more than 100 residents—known as the Piedicrucinchi—still live here, the church is designated as a “Monument historique,” meaning a historic site of great significance. The exuberantly ornate interior bears witness to the region’s former wealth, as does the covered fountain “Fontaine à colonnes,” where we begin our tour. Following the signpost, we climb a long stone staircase up into the village to cross through it. Along the way, we can admire the beautiful stone roofs of the houses. Soon, centuries-old chestnut trees in a shady grove line the path that leads us to Pastoreccia 02. Here we head toward the mountain village of Campodonico 03and follow the cobblestone village streets past old stone houses. The few houses with gray slate roofs cling like an eagle’s nest to the steep slopes that drop down from the narrow mountain ridge. From the clearing near the small chapel, a magnificent view opens up over the Vallée d’Orezza with the summit of San Petrone (see Tour 77). We leave the village and immediately begin hiking past ancient trees that have grown into almost artistic shapes. First on a steep descent, then more gently downhill, we make our way through old, terraced farmland toward the village of Pie-d’Orezza 04, following the signs for “Boucle 1” (= Loop 1). In the small village, the ruins of the Romanesque Chapel of San Nicolao stand out, surrounded by a few old stone houses. We cross the village until we reach a bridge and a washhouse, and shortly afterward, the Romanesque Chapel of Santa Maria. Here we turn toward Piedipartino 05 and hike for about 15 minutes to the small village of. Among the sights here are the parish church’s multicolored door, featuring motifs of a lindworm, and the “maison forte.” After another 10 minutes, we reach the Carcheto 07 waterfall 06. A makeshift staircase leads past the cascade and takes us up into the village. After visiting the large Baroque church of Ste Marguerite, we switch to the “boucle 3” trail toward Stazzona 08. This section takes us past old patrician houses from the 19th century, townhouses from the 16th century, and the former spa hotel “Source thermales d’Orezza.” The unique hydrogeology of the Castagniccia region has given rise to numerous thermal springs, among which the Orezza spring is particularly rich in iron. To return to Piedicrocce, we take the path leading north out of the village and reach Piedicrocce 01in the lower part of the village.