Hikes in Mese

In recent years the Via Francisca has been reevaluated by many trekking enthusiasts. The route, about 37 kilometers long in total, crosses the entire Valchiavenna and offers remarkable naturalistic insights to its visitors, as well as passing through ancient uninhabited villages. The entire trail is signposted and safe, and is a worthwhile route to discover in all seasons. For those coming from the north, the Via Francisca is a natural continuation of the ViaSpluga. Among the most interesting points, in addition to the beautiful town of Chiavenna, it is worth mentioning the Pian di Spagna Reserve, the small temple of San Fedelino and the old Colombée tower restored by the municipality of San Pietro di Samolaco, which now houses a small ethnographic museum set up in October 2008 by the Samolaco Library Cultural Association. The trail is part of the itineraries "Le Vie del Viandante" 12 of the most beautiful and special paths that wayfarers have traced over the centuries: from Switzerland to Valchiavenna immersing a striking alpine scenery, to little-known villages on the eastern shore of Lake Como.

Above, as soon as we lift our eyes, rock towers, slanting, weigh on the valley. Around us, in Chiavenna, stones, rocks everywhere: skillfully roughly hewn corners, roof slabs, street curbs. A city of stone. And on the path, in the woods, among lifted mosses and logs, we feel a surprising breath of air coming from the earth, cold air, like the breath of time, like the breath of the mountains. It is in the moment of that invisible contact that we understand how this breath has combined the qualities of the inhabitants of this territory: dairy and sausage production with the ability to quarry and work stone. The crotti are the cave of the valley's memory, as much as the Pace of Chiavenna: it is at once ingenuity and management of cold and preservation, the old and new economy, the ability to receive the earth’s strength. Feel the freshness...

Even in these rooms, lined with wood and featuring a large fireplace, the way to the Grand Tour opened. From these ancient cobblestone streets, one could look far towards the Italian experiences that would enrich scholars of ancient art, literature, and theatre. And young people seeking maturity. Outside, the solitary life of the alpine pastures, rocks, and forests rages on: many passed through, spent the night, and moved on. …Only at a certain point was it understood that from these heights, where the water slows down resting on the ledge of an ancient hanging glacier, wealth could be generated that would flow far away, into the plains. Some realized it, but not me, who cared for cows, milked for the cheese of a few, and, in winter, carved wooden spoons to sell in the nearby town in exchange for things I could not have. So one day I followed the pipe and the wealth it generated, which was never mine…

Above us, as soon as we look up, sloping rock towers loom over the valley. All around us in Chiavenna, rocks and stones are everywhere: skillfully hewn corner stones, roof slabs, and curbs. A city of stone. And on the trail, in the woods, among tufts of moss and tree trunks, we feel a surprising gust of air rising from the earth—cold air, like the breath of time, like the breath of the mountains. It is in that instant of invisible contact that we understand how this breath has shaped the talents of the people of this land: the production of cheese and cured meats combined with the skill of quarrying and working stone. The crotti are the valley’s repository of memory, just as much as the Pace di Chiavenna: they embody both ingenuity and the management of cold and preservation, the old and the new economy, and the ability to draw strength from the earth. Feel how cool it is...

Anche in queste stanze, rivestite di legno e con un grande camino, si è aperta la strada al Grand Tour. Da queste vie acciottoliate e antiche si guardava lontano verso le esperienze italiane che avrebbero arricchito studiosi di arte antica, letteratura e teatro. E rampolli in cerca di maturità. Fuori imperversa la vita solitaria dell’alpeggio, delle rocce e delle foreste: tanti passavano, annottavano e ripartivano. …Solo ad un certo punto si è capito che da queste alture, dove l’acqua rallenta adagiatasulla balza di un antico ghiacciato pensile, si poteva generare ricchezza che sarebbe defluita lontano, in pianura. Qualcuno l’ha capito ma non io che curavo vacche, mungevo latte per il formaggio di pochi e, d’inverno, scolpivo cucchiai di legno da vendere nella cittadina di valore in cambio di cose che non potevo avere. Così un giorno ho seguito il tubo e la ricchezza che generava e che non è mai stata mia…

Antica Via Regina

Ab Gordona der Via Fraciscia folgend. Endpunkt Lago di Mezzola, Übernachtung z.B. im Margutte e Morgante.

Cammino dell'antica e moderna Via Priula. Consigliata la suddivisione in 4 tappe: - da Piazza Brembana al Passo San Marco (20km ca.) - dal Passo San Marco a Morbegno (15km ca.) - da Morbegno a Novate Mezzola (25km ca.) - da Novate Mezzola a Chiavenna (20km ca.) Totale all'incirca 80km.