Hiking Trail
· Lugo Province
Palas de Rei – Arzúa – The final few kilometers through unspoiled nature before Santiago
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Difficulty
difficult
Although the route is mostly peaceful, there are actually very few sections along (noisy) roads. The trails can get very slippery here when it rains, but they’re generally well-maintained and alternate briskly between gravel, asphalt, and sand or grit.> From Palas de Rei 01, the arrows guide us right through the town, so we cross the N-547 twice. However, once we’ve passed the main square and the Camino leads down through fields to the left of the road, we might as well follow the N-547 along the sidewalk until we reach the town exit sign. The Camino itself winds back and forth more or less before leading back to the road. Beyond that sign, it does the same, but shortly afterward it turns right again, heading uphill into the small village of O Carballa 02. At the end of the village, we turn left across the N-547, which we now leave behind for the time being, and hike downhill through a grove of eucalyptus trees. The path can be muddy and slippery, especially when covered with fallen leaves. We walk under the approaching highway bridge, which ends there. Shortly afterward, we cross San Xulián do Camino 03. Then a beautiful sunken path takes us down to A Ponte Compaña 04 and on, along partly uneven trails, to Casanova 05. After a short uphill stretch, we hike through an oak-lined ravine and then back downhill again, on terrain that is partly uneven and muddy. The landscape opens up to reveal fields, and on the way to the main road, we pass a few houses.Until we reach paved asphalt again, the condition of the path changes constantly. The road leads us to O Coto, right next to the N-547, where we can take a nice break at the lovely bar. We continue to stay away from the road, as the Camino veers off to the left of it once more. We hike along good, solid paths to the nearby town of O Leboreiro. Moving back and forth from the noisy road, we hike through charming landscapes. Whether it’s heathland, pastures, or fields and groves, the scenery is always broken up and dotted with picturesque houses—just enough so as not to feel intrusive. Eucalyptus trees also appear here and there, adding variety to the classic oak forests. After passing a fairly small industrial and commercial area, we soon enter a wooded section again. As soon as we cross the bridge over the Río Furelos, we’re in the suburb of the same name, Melide 06. The town itself is already visible in the background. From here, it’s still a good 12 km to the end of the stage. From the center, we turn right onto the next side street, which takes us to the church and the old town (follow the signs). As we zigzag out of town, we have to pass a cemetery to cross the busy main street and reach the much quieter side street. Soon after, the Camino branches off to the right; we pass another cemetery and soon come to a fork in the trail 07. In case of rain or wet conditions, the left fork is recommended, while the right fork leads through a eucalyptus forest and across a river (which has been made passable with large stones).Emerging from the forest, we reach O Barreiro right on the N-547, but here, too, we turn left away from the road. In Boente de Arriba, there is a German hostel with a café. Heading down to Boente 08 itself, we cross the road and turn right into the grove. Passing under the bridge, we reach a rest area, walk uphill again, and come to another fork 09. Here, we can stay on the main path to the right. In the next village, A Castañeda 10, and the surrounding hamlets, the landscape opens up again, offering plenty of views. After more ups and downs, we cross the N-547 via a bridge, reach the Río Iso via the medieval bridge, and walk throughRibadiso 11 before changing sides of the road again. The Camino takes a detour to the left of the road to pass under it. We emerge right next to a hostel in Ribadiso de Arriba and turn right up the side street. On the final climb to Arzúa 12, we follow the N-547 on its left side to our destination, still a good 1.5 km away.