Hiking Trail
· Pyrénées-Atlantiques
Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port – Roncesvalles/Orrega (Winter Route) – A tough climb
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This alternative route is intended for those who wish to walk the Camino de Santiago during the off-season, as the main route (1A) is closed from November 1 through March 31 due to unpredictable winter weather. It’s important to note that failure to comply with this ban is punishable by hefty fines. The Navarran police regularly patrol the Spanish side of the trail. Furthermore, the pilgrim office may also suggest this alternative as a detour during the season, even in bad weather. The very first stage puts our stamina to the test, as the final kilometers of the ascent are quite challenging and steep. Winding along the road and through picturesque beech forests, the trail nevertheless has a charm all its own.> In picturesque Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, we begin our hike at Pilgrim Office 01. There, we receive our first information about the Camino and the stage ahead of us. We then follow the road downhill, past the citadel, cross the Nive River, and from there begin the ascent, passing through the old “La Porte de Espagne,” the gate to Spain. We emerge onto the road, which forks not far ahead of us. Route 1A branches off to the left, and Route 02, on the D-428—our alternative route—to the right.The classic symbols for the Way of St. James are the well-known scallop shell and the yellow arrows, which we’ll still see very often along the trails. Here, however, the signage for the GR65—with its red and white stripes—predominates. Following the road, we soon catch a last glimpse of our starting point before, following the 03 signposts, we turn inland, cross a river, and follow it past fields and pastures. For a while, we walk sometimes on gravel paths, sometimes on asphalt, sometimes uphill, sometimes downhill, but eventually arrive at a few shops where we can stock up on provisions again or take a break (there are no shopping options at the destination itself, only a restaurant for dinner and breakfast). The arrows lead us behind the gas station. While the trail has been clearly marked by people so far, it becomes a bit rougher from here on out. Upon arriving in Arnéguy 04, we’ve reached the French/Spanish border. Here, two options present themselves. In case of heavy rain or even snow, it’s advisable to hike the entire way up on the road, which can be somewhat dangerous at times, as there’s no real shoulder and the road has some tight curves. In general, however, you should use the road as little as possible, especially since the Camino itself runs along it in some upcoming sections. The actual trail then leads to the left of Arnéguy, crossing the river and continuing along wide paths. Passing by a few farms, we arrive at the next little village, Luzaide/Valcarios. From there, we must walk the next 2 km or so along the road with caution until we reach a left turn ( 05 ) onto more rugged trails. It’s not far to the next village, but the roughly 1.5 km-long gravel path becomes increasingly rustic and is lined with numerous chestnut trees, which we’ve already seen quite often so far. When it rains, the sometimes narrow paths can quickly become washed out and slippery. Extra caution is needed then, as the slopes down to the river drop at angles of up to 90° without any safety barriers. Once we’ve crossed the two bridges, the trail climbs back up to the road, which we follow carefully again until, after about 1.7 km, another trail branches off. From there on, we stay on forest trails. Another turnoff ( 06) is very narrow in places, rocky, muddy, and drops steeply on the left. While the trail up to this point has been fairly easy—though a bit arduous in places—it now becomes a real test of endurance. The last 4 to 5 km to Roncesvalles drag on, and we have to climb up to 400 meters in elevation over a short distance. By now, at the latest, it will become clear whether you’ve packed too much into your backpack. As soon as we briefly rejoin the road, the climb becomes less steep. After the last few grueling meters, we reach the pass at about 1,050 m and the Puerto de Ibañeta 07. The views on both sides are the reward for the tough hours of the climb. From here on, it’s all downhill for about 1.3 km toward Roncesvalles, once again on forest trails that may be similar in character to the ones we’ve walked before. Upon arriving at the Roncesvalles 08 monastery complex, we find the hostel office on the other side of the complex.