Hiking Trail
· Palencia
Ledigos – Calzada del Coto – Just Follow Your Nose
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It’s also a good idea to spend the night in Sahagún and end the stage there after just 17 km. However, since there’s an alternative route for the following day, Calzada del Coto (with a shop) is a better and quieter option.> In Ledigos 01, we pass the bar “La Morena” as well as the soccer field and rest area. Once again, we cross the N-120 and follow it for a short distance. As we cross the river, we continue to keep to the left of the paved road. Thanks to the highway, there’s hardly any traffic on the national road. It doesn’t take long before we spot a large Templar building (hostel), and soon after we reach Terradillos de los Templarios 02 and pass through it. Despite its lovely-sounding name, it’s a rather unremarkable town. Heading downhill and past the “Jaques de Molay” hostel—which is closed in winter—and the soccer field, the Camino takes us across the fields to Moratinos 03, 3 km away.Right at the entrance to the village, we see something slightly to the right that strongly resembles the Hobbit holes from “The Lord of the Rings.” These are small taverns (bodegas) and also wine cellars. There’s a hostel on the left, but the path continues through the town center and eventually returns to dirt paths. We reach the next town, San Nicolás del Real Camino 04, in idyllic surroundings. At the town’s edge, the path splits again, offering us the choice of taking the route across the road (turn right) or continuing through the rolling fields (straight ahead). Although this route is slightly longer, it’s also more scenic. Despite the noisy highway in the background, it’s very peaceful to walk here, especially in the early morning hours. We walk roughly parallel to the road, but as soon as we’ve crossed the last hill (Sahagún lies ahead of us), we turn off at a 90° angle toward the N-120, walk briefly along its left side, and cross it at a bridge.The Camino now takes a small detour along the river, before veering left again at an old ermita with a rest area. The two statues in front of us invite us to Sahagún. Following the main path, we pass under the road ahead of us and walk through the small, if not particularly attractive, industrial area. Passing the hotel and to the right of the train station, we quickly cross a bridge into the beautiful downtown area of Sahagún 05. The Camino is well-marked here, and we also pass by a few hostels. Here you can stock up on food once more; depending on which route we choose the next day, there won’t be many good options along the way. At the stage’s destination itself, however, there’s a small, expensive store if needed. Following the arrows downhill through town, Calle Antonio Nicolás leads us to the large archway, the San Bonito. To the right of it is the comfortable Benedictine nuns’ monastery hostel, which, with its barred windows, looks like a former prison. We cross the bridge over the Río Cea to leave the town. On the left side of the road, we walk along an inviting gravel path through a poplar-lined avenue. Leaving a few sports fields behind us, we soon come to a roundabout. Here, too, we continue straight ahead alongside the N-120. As soon as the highway draws near, the signs guide us to the other side of the road. On the other side, we reach a fork in the trail ( 06 ) and must decide for the next leg whether to go left along the highway to El Burgo Ranero and ultimately on to Mansilla de las Mulas via the Camino Real, or take the alternate route via Calzada del Coto to Reliegos (the sign indicates the route to Mansilla de las Mulas, but the signposts actually only take us as far as Reliegos, from where we’d like to rejoin the main route). To the right, over the highway bridge, we have to walk along the shoulder and cross the intersections with caution. The quiet Calzada del Coto 07 is just beyond that.