Hikes in Dusheti

The classic hike from Omalo to Schatili via the Atsunta Pass is certainly one of the most interesting hiking routes in the Caucasus.

Atmospheric oxygen and the most common oxide, water, make life on Earth possible, but they also complicate the third stage. Why? During the hot summer months, the Tebulosmta Glacier produces a great deal of meltwater, leading to a massive rise in the water level, so that the river we need to cross often becomes impassable as early as the afternoon. To get around this problem, the river crossing should be scheduled for the early morning hours. At that time, the air also becomes thinner. It consists of 78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen, and 1% carbon dioxide, and this composition remains the same at all altitudes. As altitude increases, air pressure decreases, and with it, the partial pressure of oxygen (pO2). In other words: At the highest point of this stage, the 3,500-meter-high Atsunta Pass, it is only 68% of the value at sea level, so we have 32% less oxygen dissolved in our arterial blood. Oxygen deprivation has a euphoric and sedative effect, so that while the symptoms are clearly present, they are not properly perceived by the hiker. The magnificent mountain scenery at the Atsunta Pass also has a euphoric effect: to the south rise Pirchitasgori (3,783 m) and Amgha (3,840 m), to the northwest stands the 5,047-meter-high Kazbek, and to the northeast of the pass, the mountain ridge rises steeply to the 4,494-meter-high Tebulosmta.> We leave the natural campsite at the Kvakhidistskali River (2,488 m) and follow the trail upstream. The gorge narrows more and more in a spectacular fashion. On a clear day, the pre-summit of Tebulosmta appears on the horizon. After a brief series of ups and downs, the trail runs directly alongside the river. We pass another ruin and then reach the 02 river crossing (2,589 m) described in the introduction to this tour. Here, two streams converge to form the river we have been following so far. A pile of stones marks the best spot for wading across. Please be sure to read the subsection “River Crossings” in the chapter “Hiking Hazards – Georgia”! After crossing the stream, we follow the course of the second stream. After crossing two streams, the trail leads slightly to the right uphill at the confluence of two more streams. On a small grassy plateau, there is another beautiful 03 campsite (2,801 m). After leaving the green meadow behind us, a clearly visible trail leads over slate quarries to the 04 Atsunta Pass (3,510 m). Here we cross the historical-geographical border between Tusheti (Kakheti region) and Chevsureti (Mtskheta-Mtianeti region). Behind the northwestern summit of the pass lies a huge snow cornice that usually persists well into August; we cross it to begin our descent. Over more patches of residual snow and loose scree, a well-trodden trail leads first in a zigzag pattern, then in long switchbacks down to green meadows. At another natural campsite and a spring, we replenish our water supplies and follow the trail—visible from afar—which now leads along the left flank of the wide gorge. At the level of the rhododendrons, the path climbs again until we reach a broad ridge, down which we descend at a leisurely pace. About 400 meters past a large pile of rocks, we leave the well-trodden path on the ridge to the right and look for a wind-sheltered campsite for the night. At this spot, there’s a magnificent viewpoint ( 2,698 m) offering a view of three mostly snow-capped four-thousand-meter peaks.

​The morning begins with beautiful weather and a breathtaking view of three 4,000-meter peaks: on the left, the 4,180-meter-high Maistismta; in the center, the 4,081-meter-high Majstoj-Lam; and on the right, the 4,449-meter-high Tebulosmta. From here, the descent begins through a unique, biodiverse meadow landscape. While meadow flowers typically grow up to 80 cm tall, here they reach heights of up to 1.50 m—absolutely incredible—if you can find the path. The stage continues through the fascinating Ardot Gorge with its towering rock faces. High up on the mountain to the left, you’ll soon spot the black ruins of Ardoti amid the green meadows. The village features a 19th-century church, the highly recommended Ardoti Guesthouse, a defensive tower, and a Marian cross. From here, we’ll hike along a well-maintained trail. To the left of the trail, just before Mutso, you’ll come across earthen pyramids formed by continuous erosion. Another cultural highlight is Mutso, the oldest settlement and fortress in Khevsureti. Strategically located, its purpose was to repel enemy invaders from northern Georgia. In 1769, it was burned down and destroyed during the incursion by Iman Shamil, the leader of the Muslim mountain peoples of Dagestan and Chechnya. In 1820, Mutso was finally abandoned.> We leave our overnight camp at the magnificent 01 viewpoint (2,698 m) with a touch of wistfulness, return to the trail, and continue hiking along the broad mountain ridge. After a short climb, we can already see the fenced-in building of the 02 Border Police (2,478 m), where our “permit” is checked. We walk around the building to the left and head toward the left side of a hill rising up ahead of us. The trail is hard to make out in the grass. Ideally, you’ll have the GPS track handy. Once you’ve found the trail through the meadows, it first runs along the slope for quite a distance before winding downhill in long switchbacks through a sparse birch forest. The trail is particularly hard to find at the beginning of the blooming season. A mostly hidden hazard here is the fresh and very slippery horse manure! After passing a few ruins, we reach the valley floor at the 03 Andakistskali River (1,686 m). We cross the river on a bridge. I hesitate a bit to use the word “bridge” for this rickety structure! After 500 meters, we have to wade through a stream. Then a dirt road begins, and we cross two more bridges until, past another campground, we see the village of 04 Ardoti (1,668 m) up on the mountain to the left. We cross another stream. Now we follow an easy trail through the fascinating Ardot Gorge. Halfway to Mutso, there’s a spring on the left side of the trail with delicious-tasting water. To the left of the trail, and also just before Mutso, you’ll come across earthen pyramids formed by continuous washout and erosion. In 05 Mutso (1,561 m), the driver we’ve already booked is waiting for us.

Trekking durch tuschetien