Hikes in Bucimas

Pogradec is a city in southeastern Albania in the Korça administrative district. It lies directly on Lake Ohrid, one of the oldest and deepest lakes in Europe. The region is one of Albania’s most scenic areas—not least because of its extensive chestnut forests, some of which are up to 40 years old. We’ll first hike through these forests to the historic Shën e Diela Church. Consecrated on May 16, 1935, the church is also known as the “Church of the 12 Apostles” and is an Orthodox pilgrimage site. Its interior features traditional frescoes and iconography. Afterward, the exploration tour leads to the approximately 3-meter-high Ujëvara i Kisha waterfall, hidden in a dark chestnut and mixed forest. After a short ascent, we reach a scenic high-altitude trail that treats us to breathtaking views of Lake Ohrid. Finally, we arrive at the ruins of the ancient fortress Kalaja e Pogradecit. It was originally built by the Illyrians (c. 1000 BCE to 168 BCE) and later used by the Byzantines (from the 4th to the 14th century). The site is also very popular as a lookout point, as it offers an impressive view over Pogradec and Lake Ohrid. In Pogradec,we leave the main road and turn onto the side street marked by the information board and the signpost pointing toward Shtegu i Gështenjave. At the end of the uphill road, we turn right. At the end of this road, we continue straight ahead on the trail past the house and turn left onto the gravel road that crosses it. We ignore the first trail branching off to the right. At a green gate and another signpost, we turn right and follow the trail as it begins. After a short stretch through the woods, the barely visible trail leads uphill across an open area, where it continues along a rutted path. We ignore the rutted path branching off to the right. Now continue along a trail. After 800 m, you’ll reach the 02Kisha Shën e Diela (Kabish Church), after taking the path slightly to the right at the fork in front of the church. During my visit, the gate to the grounds was open, but the church was locked. There is also no other information available regarding visiting hours. Behind the gate, we turn left and, at the next fork in the path, take the sharp right turn. The trail leads down into the valley. After crossing the stream, the path goes uphill again and then continues to the left along the wide main trail. At a three-way fork—where our route continues uphill to the right and the path to the left crosses the stream—we take the middle path, which isn’t entirely clear. It winds through the dense forest to a huge rock, which we climb over to reach the 03Ujëvara i Kisha (Kabash Waterfall).First, we retrace our steps along the familiar route to the three-way fork and then turn left onto the path leading uphill. Where spring water flows into a separate tub, we reach a 04key point that’s easy to overlook. Here we turn right and walk the few meters toward the cabin. We then pass the cabin on our right and climb up through the meadow to look for a trail that’s just beginning. On the trail, which has been heavily eroded by rain, we often have to push our way through the brush until we continue right onto the gravel path that crosses our route. An impressive high-altitude trail with great views follows. Where the soil is dark brown, we choose the road that leads slightly to the left and downhill into a hollow at the many forks. We pass under a power line, and then the ruins of the 05Kalaja e Pogradecit (Pogradec Castle) can already be seen in the distance. After exploring the ruins, we walk only a short distance downhill along the gravel road leading into the valley, then turn left at the end of the newly built, half-height stone wall surrounding the ruins to begin our ascent. About 10 meters past the white monument on the left, we begin our descent. The trail is very steep at the beginning. After crossing a dirt road, we reach a house. From there, we walk down a series of switchbacks to the main road. Following the road to the right, we then reach the parking area near the mosque in 01 Pogradec.