Trotternish Ridge (Spring 2014)

PLEASE NOTE: The GPX trace on this route is for use as a guide only, its accuracy may change depending on the scale of map you are using. Use in combination with judgement and a paper map. We have taken all reasonable steps to ensure these walks are safe and correctly described. However things do change and all outdoor activities involve a degree of risk. The publishers accept no responsibility for any errors or omissions or for any injuries or accidents that occur whilst following this walk. Trail magazine, Copyright Bauer Media Limited.



Distance 27km (16¾ miles)
Total ascent 1800m
Time 10–11 hours
Start parking area on A855 at NG495510;
Finish A855 near Flodigarry (NG464710)
Terrain stretches of path between Ben Dearg and the Quiraing where the going underfoot is generally grassy with some heather and rocky terrain; the route before and after crosses some rough and boggy terrain.
Accommodation Torvaig campsite, Portree (01478) 611849; Dun Flodigarry Hostel (01470) 552212; Seabound B&B, Flodigarry (01470) 552771
Public transport 57c bus from Portree – ask to be let down at the first Loch Leathan parking area


Trotternish is the Isle of Skye’s northernmost peninsula; its coastal strip is garlanded by a series of villages, small settlements  and farms linked by a singletrack road. The wild hinterland rises up from the west in a series of whale-backed spurs to the mountainous ridge running the entire length of the peninsula, then drops suddenly away over a steep escarpment of craggy cliffs on the eastern side to an outlandish realm of rock stacks, pinnacles and lochans.

The Trotternish Ridge traverse has been described as one of the finest ridge-walks in the British Isles and yet few walkers are encountered either side of the Storr Sanctuary and the Quiraing – the tourist magnets book-ending the steep eastern escarpment. The ridge is a magnificent mountain landscape blessed with some of the finest views in Scotland. The route described here joins the ridge just south of The Storr and finishes a few kilometres beyond the Quiraing at Flodigarry, making for a fantastic though demanding day on the hills. The ridge can be walked north to south; however south-north keeps the prevailing south-westerly winds behind you!

NG495510 From the small parking area near a waterfall, initially follow a path north-west, though this fades as you head across open moorland. Aim to the right of the bealach and as you begin to climb more steeply, look out for a path climbing diagonally right to left across the escarpment and make for this. This leads you up to the ridge at Bealach Mor.

NG485513 Continue along the ridge, following the edge of the escarpment, gradually gaining height until you’re above Lochan a’ Bhealaich Bhig, nestling at the foot of the cliffs. Drop a short way into Bealach Beag, skirting above the bowl scooped out of the escarpment’s edge. Now begin the steep 260m pull north-eastwards up the grassy slopes of The Storr’s southern flank. As you near the summit, move closer to the cliff edge for the fantastic views into the Coire Faoin and the Storr Sanctuary with a grandstand view of the Old Man of Storr – a jutting pinnacle of rock reaching a height of 535m. This is a good vantage point for spotting ravens, white-tailed eagles and golden eagles. Continue on to the trig point atop the summit of The Storr, the highest peak of the Trotternish Ridge at 719m. There are fine views east across the sound to the isles of Rona and Raasay; and, on a clear day, the innumerable summits of the mountainous west coast of Scotland seem to stretch into infinity.

NG495540 From the summit of The Storr, head north-westwards away from the north ridge, which descends into the moors above Rigg, and descend steadily on good terrain towards the Bealach a’Chuirn (489m); the view north along the cliffs of the eastern escarpment is particularly dramatic from here. Climb northwestwards from the bealach, steeply at first then more steadily on grassy slopes to the summit of Hartaval at 668m. Each summit and bealach along the ridge offers its own impressive views and Hartaval is no exception – the prow-like north ridge of The Storr is particularly impressive from this vantage point.

NG480551 From Hartaval the ridge bends initially northwards, then around to the northwest as you descend to Bealach Hartaval. The next hill on the traverse is Baca Ruadh at 639m, with the lower top of Sgurr a’Mhalaidh (615m) crossed just before the main summit. The promontory of Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh Ruadh juts north-eastwards from the ridge and is reached by following the edge of the escarpment around in a big curve, first north-west then north-east. The summit stands at 593m and provides good views along the escarpment, particularly northwards towards the distant Quiraing. Return along the promontory, swinging around to the north-west to continue along the ridge, then descend to a bealach before making the short, steep climb to Creag Liath at 609m. There follows a short descent to the Bealach na Leacaich – which is crossed by a fence and dilapidated drystone wall – before climbing the whalebacked summit of Flasvein at 599m.
NG461595 Drop down into Bealach Chaiplin then make the short ascent of Groba nan Each (575m). From the summit continue along the narrowing ridge, close to the escarpment edge to avoid crags on the northern flank, which leads down to the Bealach Amadal. There now remains only the small matter of crossing Beinn Mheadhonach (579m) before reaching the Bealach Mhoramhain beneath Beinn Edra, the second highest peak on the Trotternish Ridge. The ascent along the ridge is easy with the added benefit of a path leading to the summit at 611m, where you’ll find an OS trig pillar with a low drystone shelter wall. You can enjoy the view back along the ridge as far as The Storr, then look northwards to Bioda Buide and the Quiraing – the final waystations on the day’s pilgrimage.

NG456627 The path continues northwards, keeping the cliffs close by to your right as you descend for over 300m to the Bealach Uige. This is arguably the best spot along the entire ridge to camp. Though boggy in places, there are small areas of dry-ish springy grass near the escarpment edge and fresh water can be gathered from a small cascade at NG444639, which runs down to the Lon Airigh-uige. Continue north-westwards over the slight rise of Druim na Coille at 321m and follow the ridge as it dips down to the Bealach nan Coisichean at the foot of the steep slope forming Bioda Buidhe’s southern flank. Climb steeply north with the edge of the escarpment to your right then, as the gradient slackens, bear north-east towards the summit of Bioda Buidhe at 466m.

NG439664 From the summit of Bioda Buidhe follow a trodden path as it descends along the escarpment edge. The path follows a cliff edge northwest for a short way as it angles obliquely away from the main escarpment; descend from this low cliff to stay on the main path close to the escarpment edge and this will lead you directly down to a car park on the Bealach Ollasgairte. The minor road crossing the bealach runs between Uig in the west and Staffin in the east, and it’s the only road to cross the Trotternish Ridge. 

NG440679 Cross the road from the car park and follow a signposted path heading north-eastwards, towards the Quiraing. Stay on the path as it leads you north-westwards into a Tolkien-esque domain of rock stacks and pinnacles. After 1.5km the path leads between a cluster of pinnacles including the remarkable spires of The Needle above to your left and the sinister edifice of The Prison on the right – looking very much like a sinister castle on a misty day. The path rounds a bend at an overhung rock and continues north, passing beneath The Table, an expanse of level, close-cropped turf sitting atop a raised rock platform. A short way beyond The Table you will reach a fork in the path; here turn right and soon descend past Loch Hasco, continuing on past Loch Langaig before reaching the A855 just south of Flodigarry.