From Zebegény to Nagymaros through Törökmező
Magyar Természetjáró Szövetség Verified partner Explorers Choice
Kerékpárút és turistaút Kövesmező és Törökmező közöttPhoto: Eszter Szabó, Magyar Természetjáró Szövetség
Natural lakes are scarce in Börzsöny, most of the few ponds found in the area were created artificially. On level ground, permanent streams of water were dammed to create lakes and to make use of the body of water created this way. That is also how the Törökmező Fishing Pond came to being, which we will visit slightly off trail. In summertime, green algae thrive in the sunshine and warm temperature and grow all over the shallow water, painting the water surface bright green.
The closed mass of the volcanic hills drains the water of the streams easily, so the water level of the creeks tends to fluctuate widely. In the height of summer and in the autumn, there is hardly any water at the bottom of Malom Creek, but in wintertime, it rushes down with elemental force, carving the gorge ever deeper.
Climbing up in Malom Valley, we have the whole range of tourist accommodations, with an increasing level of comfort: After the clearing of Sátorozó-rét, we arrive to a yurt camp, where we have a roof over our head, and the rural guest house next to it even offers a fully equipped kitchen. In the nearby guest house, we can not only enjoy electricity and running water, but even a snack bar and hot food is provided to serve our convenience.
Törökmező, also accessible by car, offers several attractive activities to all age groups—it is actually quite hard to choose from them. The smallest ones can have fun on the playground and in the mini zoo, while bigger children can challenge each other on the soccer field or the volleyball court. The adventure park is a challenge for everyone, where we can test our agility, balance and creativity as well as we try to get from one obstacle to the next. We can enjoy the fresh air, delicious refreshments and cool drinks in the shade of the trees in the summer, and have a hot soup or tea to warm us up in wintertime.
Following the National Blue Trail to Nagymaros our path is joined by a study trail, on which we can learn about the silvopasture that we are walking on, and which was already a busy droveway in the Middle Ages: It was used as a shortcut between Nagymaros and Zebegény by herdsmen droving their livestock to the German market, while the animals could even graze on the rich pasture.
The experiences of the tour are concluded at Kövesmező and at the resting stop on our way down, where we can admire the majestic view of the Citadel of Visegrád towering glamorously over the opposite side of the Danube.
- The signs of the Törökmező study trail are sometimes hard to spot behind the tall undergrowth. Keep a sharp eye out for them.
- We can get to Fehér-kút Spring marked by the green circle (Z●) blazing following the green (Z) trail from Törökmezei Lake.
- We can recharge our energies in Zebegény at the great Monarchia Rétesház (“Strudel House”), which is only open seasonally, unfortunately.
Track typesShow elevation profile
Safety informationAt the time of the floods, crossing Malom Creek is made difficult by the high water levels. Trekking poles can be a great help for keeping our balance.
Tips and hints
- If we have plenty of extra time left as we reach Köves Field, we can take the National Blue Trail marked by the blue (K) blazing and walk up to Hegyes-tető. Julianus Lookout Tower gives us a surprisingly stunning panorama of the Danube Bend, the nearby villages, Börzsöny, and the Visegrád Hills across the river.
- Shortly after we enter the forest at the edge of Törökmező, the red (P) and blue (K) trails part. In the second half of summer, we can choose an alternative route for a treat. Following the red (P) trail left instead of the blue (K) trail, then continuing our descent on the dirt road crossing our path, we are about to come upon rich blackberry shrubs on both sides of the road, where we can pick plenty berries to fill our stomach in the season and leave some. The descending forestry road will take us back to the blue (K) trail that crosses it, and we can continue on our original route from here.
- From Zebegény railway stop, go north-east on the green (Z) trail, which leads in Malom Valley, passing by the Malom rural guest house and Nomádia Yurt Camping.
- The blue (K) and green (Z) trails go together on a short section. As they separate, we follow the green (Z) trail passing by the Törökmezei Fishing Pond, then we follow the green square (Z◼) trail on the right to Törökmező, or the blue (K) trail over the wooden bridge.
- We follow the blue (K) trail from Törökmező to Kövesmező, which will be joined by study trails later.
- From Kövesmező, we descend to the Nagymaros-Visegrád railway stop on the blue cross (K+) trail.
Detailed tour guide
We leave the picturesque Zebegény going north on the green (Z) trail along Malom Creek. The creek originates near Kóspallag, and flows into the Danube at Zebegény, but if we take the tour in a drier season of the year, we will only be able to hear its peacefully burbling sound when our path leads directly next to it. Its deep-carved bed still gives us a hint of its water levels after the snow melts in the hills, or after a heavy rainfall. The most important stream of the southern part of the strongly divided, dry Börzsöny does not dry up completely even in the height of summer. Look out for pieces of andesite in the gorge, the rock that is the foundation of these volcanic hills.
After we cross the creek (which can be slightly challenging in times of flood), our path leads through intermittent sections of forest and clearings. Leaving the clearing of Sátorozó-rét behind, we find Malom Rural Guest House hidden in the forest, which can be booked all year round with prior arrangement, and the two 11-bed yurts of Nomádia Yurt Camping, which is open between May and October.
The National Blue Trail marked with blue (K) blazing joins our route from the left, and turns right in 100 metres crossing the wooden bridge. At the junction, follow the green (Z) trail to visit the Törökmezei Fishing Pond. The artificial lake was created by damming Malom Creek, and offers a peculiar sight in high summer—see for yourself by taking a short walk at the lake side next to the house. At the parts of the pond that are continuously exposed to the sun, green algae grow all over the water surface, making it look bright green as we look at it from the bank. The lake is managed by the Blue Danube Fishing Club of Nagymaros, and has carp, bream and crucian carp in it.
From here, we have two options. We can either walk back to the blue (K) trail that will take us across the wooden bridge we have already seen above Malom Creek, then going uphill, it will lead us to the guest house (this is the track marked on the map), or we can continue on the green (Z) trail. This will also take us to the guest house with a steep uphill hike, but it passes by the spring of Fehér-kút—found a few steps away on the green circle (Z●) trail. If we choose this option, we must turn right and walk on the green square (Z◼) trail for 100 metres.
It is nice to take a bigger rest at the Törökmező Guest House. Here, we can either make our own lunch/dinner from what we brought with us at the fire pit, or try the snack bar and café of the guest house—not to mention the various tasty dishes the restaurant has to offer during weekends. There are countless activities to choose from here: The little ones can have fun on the playground, and groups of bigger children can play on the sand covered volleyball court or the asphalt soccer field. The bonus feature of Törökmező is the adventure park built on the trees, which is not only challenging for children, but sometimes for rather fit adults too. In the cleverly named TörökmeZOO, we can see meerkats, ostriches, peacocks, snow foxes, guinea pigs, ring-tailed coati, raccoons, parrots and domestic animals.
From here, we continue our hike on the National Blue Trail. We walk along the side of Törökmező, then enter the woods. We are joined by the green “T” (ZT) trail, passing by some of the stations of the Törökmező Study Trail. The signs help us identify the summits in the distance, and teach us about the tricks shepherds used to use when herding under the shades of fruit orchards. The study trail accompanies us all the way to Julianus Lookout Tower at the top of Hegyes-tető from Törökmező, while giving us useful information on the forests and fields, flora and fauna, and cultural history of South Börzsöny; even giving us interesting tasks to do between the stations.
Where the green triangle (Z▲) joins our path from the left, the Nagymaros Gesztenyés Study Trail will also accompany us for a short while. At the three stations of the study trail that we will pass by, we can learn about the mammals, birds, amphibians and reptiles living in Börzsöny, complete with colourful pictures.
Kövesmező welcomes us with a fire pit equipped with a cauldron stand, benches and picnic tables. At the east side of the parking lot, there is a clearing with a mesmerising panorama of the Visegrád Citadel standing on the jagged hilltop towering above the Danube. When our eyes had their fill, it is nice to follow the blue (K) trail starting across the clearing to the next sign of the Törökmező study trail, where we are guaranteed to be beckoned by the scent and unique atmosphere of the pine forest.
From here, we start an intensive descent on the blue cross (K+) trail. We only stop once at a lookout spot to admire the Danube Bend and the Visegrád Castle.
The trail will take us to Nagymaros train station.
- The starting point of the route can be reached by train on the Budapest–Vác–Szob line. Alight the train in Zebegény.
- At the end of the route, we can take the train at the Nagymaros-Visegrád railway stop.
- From the Zebegény railway stop, go north-east on the green (Z) trail.
- The end of the route is the Nagymaros-Visegrád railway stop.
- The starting point and the end of the route is on road 12 connecting Vác and Szob.
- It is best to park next to the railway stop. We can get back from the end of the route to the starting point in a few minutes by taking the train.
- Parking next to either railway stop is free.
Author’s map recommendations
Book recommendations for this region:
- Basic hiking equipment: hiking boots, seasonal clothing, drinking water, food.
- Trekking poles can come in handy when crossing the creek.
- Trekking app for navigation.
- 3 Waypoints
- 3 Waypoints
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