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Alpine Climbing Premium content

Zeni Guide (Piz Ciavazes South Face, Sella Group)

Alpine Climbing · Sella Group
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Outdooractive Climbing Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Routenverlauf der Zeni-Führe (VII) mit Original und Direktem Einstieg in der Piz Ciavazes-Südwand
    Routenverlauf der Zeni-Führe (VII) mit Original und Direktem Einstieg in der Piz Ciavazes-Südwand
    Photo: Heinz Grill & Florian Kluckner, Outdooractive Climbing
m 2600 2500 2400 2300 2200 2100 3,0 2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 km
difficult
Distance 3 km
4:45 h
542 m
542 m
2,649 m
2,241 m
Logical route with interesting climbing sections, the highlight is probably the exposed, piton roof in the last pitch.

Difficulty: VII, VI+ A0, ümostly VI . The Zeni route is a beautiful typical Dolomite route with scales, pillars, intersections, cracks and roofs. The climbing is mostly athletic. The direct access with three pitches was re-established in 2014 by Heinz Grill, Klaus Oppermann and Barbara Holzer. Heinz Grill and Reinhard Schiestl first climbed the Direct Access in 1978. In total, there are four different ways to reach the yellow wall on the fourth pitch. The original route via the large scales on the right (V) . The shortcut über grass on the left (III) A variant that runs from right to left when entering, but this is not recommended (VI-) The direct entry . The Direct Entry tour has become a nice and recommendable venture. In the meantime, there is also a new variant by Heinz Grill for the fourth pitch, which bypasses the hard part of the original route on the right (VI) and is also easier. The belays and intermediate belays can usually be easily secured or the


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Parts of this content were machine translated using German as the source language

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Profile picture of Florian Kluckner Author Florian Kluckner
Kein Genuß ist vorübergehend; denn der Eindruck, den er zurückläßt, ist bleibend. (J. W. v. Goethe) Seit 1990 bin ich staatlich geprüfter Berg- und Schiführer. Es hat sich in den letzten Jahren bewährt, nicht ein festes Programm auszuschreiben, sondern für Sie ein individuelles Angebot zu machen. Dies vor allem als Gebietsspezialist vor Ort in der Region um Arco am Gardasee, wo ich von Ihnen für Tages- oder Halbtagestouren, Ausbildungen und Kurse auch mit dem Mehrwert Yoga gebucht werden kann. Da ich im Sarcatal über 100 Erstbegehungen zu verzeichnen habe, ist es mein “Heimgebiet” geworden. Als Bergprofi bin ich in allen Bereichen des Bergsports tätig. Zögern Sie nicht mich zu kontaktieren - ich mache Ihnen gerne ein Angebot!

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