Steger-Direkte, Rosengartenspitze, Dolomites (Catinaccio)
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Rosengartenspitze; erkennbar ist der spitze nördliche Vorgipfel und der Hauptgipfel mit GipfelkreuzPhoto: Simone Spörckmann, CC BY-SA, DAV Sektion Duisburg
- After successfully climbing the wall, you should look for the view back from the terrace of the Vajolet hut.
Rest stopsRifugio Vajolet
From the Vajolet hut, follow trail no. 584 for just a short distance to climb immediately to the left before trail no. 542, which goes up to the left, and cross below Punta Emma to the south. After about 30 minutes, following the clearly visible path, you reach a green slope dotted with large flowers. From there, the entrance is already clearly visible. We climb a few more metres to the base in front of us. In easy climbing (UIAA II) we ascend it from left to right to the entry at the end of the 1st pitch (2 drill loops with sling)..
Description of the climb.
1st SL (II) A small stem leads from left to right to the actual start of the climb (40m). The belaystation is visibly marked with two bolts and a sling. From here the fun begins.
2nd SL (IV+) A piton on the right gives us safety up to the clearly visible gully. We leave the crack at the first left crack, cross another crack and after a short 20m we stop at a slab with two pitons.
3rd SL (V) The yellow rock looks splintery, but turns out to be surprisingly solid. Small holds in the crack make you think wistfully of magnesium, but the gentle breeze quickly dries your hands. Numerous normal pitons point the way up, so that you should not delay, so that you cross out to the left at the seventh and climb up the edge to the belaystation (30m). Two pitons give you enough security for the next pitch.
4th SL (VI-) A wonderful crack intersection awaits the aspirant. With a good spreading technique and the play of the feet, you can get through the crack quite easily and without much effort. Here, too, hooks have not been spared. The following belaystation on three pitons is the last one with so much metal (20m) for now 11 SL.
5th SL (IV) Climbing up to the right, but staying below the yellow wall, it goes up to a gully that leads directly to a small roof. In front of it, slightly to the left, a piton leads to the belaystation at a cube (35m)..
6. SL (V) After a short traverse to the left, you climb in a gully until a large cube on the left becomes a belaystation (50m).
7th SL (IV+) Climb up the indicated pillar above the belaystation and cross to the right at the end (2 pitons). Now keep to the right and climb up the yellow ramp to the belaystation at two pitons (35m).
8th SL (IV+) First follow the crack and the indicated chimney upwards. Before the crack turn left and before the left scales turn right via a ramp to a belaystation (30m).
9th SL (V) Pleasantly straddling üover several large &airlift;e Klemmblke, it goes first through the chimney, then to the left über the wall to get out. In front of a shed (left) there is an SU for the belaystation (40m).
10th SL (IV+) Now follow the steep gully further up past a piton to the crag on the left (45m).
11th SL (IV) This pitch also takes us up another 45m through a steep gully.
12th SL (IV) We gain further metres in the gully to a belaystation, which is clearly visible through a sling (35m).
13. SL (V+) Initially we bypass the wide and deep crack to the left and then come back to master the difficulty on three pitons. An easy runout leads to the wall. On the right a gully rises, at the base of which we make a belay on two pitons (35m)..
14th SL (IV) Üüber die Rampe an einen Haken kurz nach rechts querend und üüber ein Band zur inzwischen drei Haken erreichen wir den Stand (45m).
15th SL (IV) Following a ramp to the right we bypass the blocky stem and climb it. Stand on a pulpit on three pitons (20m).
16th SL (V+) Almost brings back memories of the third SL. Yellow rock also greets you in the 16th SL and numerous pitons and belays show you the way. Shortly before the exit, which is on the left at the mouth of a chimney, it is time to slow down. The belaystation consists of a round washed apple and there are cracks on the right side (30m).
17th SL (V+) The beginning shows the masses of water pouring down the chimney. You should never be here in the rain. The rocks are polished smooth by the floods, but at the beginning the climbing difficulty is easy, so that the awestruck view remains without nervous tension. The chimney widens and splendid climbing - secured with three pitons - lets you gain height by bracing and straddling almost powerlessly. The belaystation is at a comfortable crag (30m).
18th SL. (III) Actually the climbing ends at this point. The triple slab has good grip and the summit, although still distant, is already visible. Leaving the rope, you reach an arbitrary crag on the wide ridge (50m)..
19th SL (II) and 20 SL (II) around 100m you now go towards the summit using the easiest route. Stand as you like. At the end, another 60-70m remain (I). The summit cross appears just before you reach it. It rewards with a summit book and a wonderful view.
From the summit we follow the ridge northwards (Steinmännchen) to the Normalwegscharte (UIAA I-II). Before reaching it, abseil down once (III). Passing it, we continue for about 50 metres towards another saddle. Stone markers point the way to the left to the west face, where numerous abseils await us. They lead us to the ascent gully of the normal route. We look at the polished rock with awe. After abseiling twice we reach the bottom. From there to the clearly visible Santnerpasshütte. Here we follow trail 542 past the Gartlhütte, descending to the Vajolet-Hütte.
Public transportBy bus from Bolzano to Pozza di Fassa. There with the shuttle bus to Gardeccia. From Gardaccia on foot to the Vajolet hut (45 minutes).
By roadComing from the north before Bolzano through the Val d'Ega and Welschnofen / Karersee into the Val di Fassa. There turn left in the direction of Pozza di Fassa.
ParkingFree parking at the lift and bus station in Pozza di Fassa.
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Normal Alpine Equipment (NAA).
There are numerous compilations for a NAA. My suggestion: The DAV Sektion Duisburg has a list of equipment for alpine climbing on its homepage under the heading „Ausbildung“.
- 2 Waypoints
- 2 Waypoints
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