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Crag

Wüstenstein

Crag · Obermain.Jura
Responsible for this content
theCrag
  • Photo: theCrag
The largest crag in the "Paradiestal" is truly a paradise for climbers who dabble in the UIAA 9 range. Classics like Jerry Moffat's "Schwarze Wand" and Wolfgang Güllich's "Sahara" and "Fata Morgana" are surrounded by some more quality routes in or around that grade. For the extreme hardmovers, "Nosegrind" offers a supreme line with a hard boulder over a striking prow. By now, also some lines in the 8th grade have been established, which end below the big roof in the west face.
Grades
UIAA
  1. VII: 1 route
    VII: 1 route
  2. VII+: 1 route
    VII+: 1 route
  3. VIII-: 2 routes
    VIII-: 2 routes
  4. VIII: 3 routes
    VIII: 3 routes
  5. VIII+: 1 route
    VIII+: 1 route
  6. IX-: 6 routes
    IX-: 6 routes
  7. IX: 5 routes
    IX: 5 routes
  8. IX+: 6 routes
    IX+: 6 routes
  9. X-: 2 routes
    X-: 2 routes
  10. X: 1 route
    X: 1 route
  11. X+: 2 routes
    X+: 2 routes
Most popular time of the year for climbing
  1. January: 0 ascents
    January: 0 ascents
  2. February: 0 ascents
    February: 0 ascents
  3. March: 1 ascent
    March: 1 ascent
  4. April: 14 ascents
    April: 14 ascents
  5. May: 5 ascents
    May: 5 ascents
  6. June: 9 ascents
    June: 9 ascents
  7. July: 3 ascents
    July: 3 ascents
  8. August: 0 ascents
    August: 0 ascents
  9. September: 15 ascents
    September: 15 ascents
  10. October: 11 ascents
    October: 11 ascents
  11. November: 0 ascents
    November: 0 ascents
  12. December: 0 ascents
    December: 0 ascents
Cardinal direction
NESW
Characteristics
Dries slowly
Sunniest time of the day
Morning
Noon
Afternoon
Type
Title
Climbing style
Grade
Length
Pitches
Bolts
Ratings
Sport climbing
0
0
Sport climbing
VII
1
0
???
Sport climbing
VIII
1
0
Sport climbing
IX-
0
0
Sport climbing
IX
1
0
Sport climbing
IX
1
0
Sport climbing
IX-
1
0
Sport climbing
IX+
1
0
Sport climbing
IX
0
0
Sport climbing
X
1
0
Sport climbing
X+
1
0
Sport climbing
IX+
0
0
Sport climbing
X+
1
0
Sport climbing
IX+
1
0
Sport climbing
1
0
Sport climbing
IX
1
0
IAN
Sport climbing
VII+
15 m
1
0
Sport climbing
VIII-
15 m
1
0
Sport climbing
VIII-
20 m
1
0
Sport climbing
A3
0
0
Sport climbing
VIII+
20 m
0
0
Sport climbing
IX-
18 m
0
0
Sport climbing
VIII
15 m
1
0
Sport climbing
0
0
Sport climbing
IX+
0
0
Sport climbing
IX-
0
0
Sport climbing
IX+
0
0
Sport climbing
0
0
Sport climbing
VIII
0
0
Sport climbing
IX-
0
0
Sport climbing
X-
0
0
Sport climbing
X-
0
0
Sport climbing
IX
0
0
Sport climbing
IX+
0
0
Sport climbing
IX-
0
0

Coordinates

DD
49.989799, 11.187964
DMS
49°59'23.3"N 11°11'16.7"E
UTM
32U 656831 5539790
w3w 
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Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Access

From Steinfeld, drive towards Wölkendorf. Shortly after passing beneath the autobahn, there is a hiker's parking lot on the right.
Now just follow the path through the "Paradiestal" (east, pass beneath the autobahn again, then turn right into the valley at the fork) for about 1.5 km, until you can see the large crag on your left, slightly north of a little fork.
GPS: 11.18745, 49.98975

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Photos from others



Climbing style
Sport climbing
Access
Flat
10-20 min
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Features
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