The largest crag in the "Paradiestal" is truly a paradise for climbers who dabble in the UIAA 9 range. Classics like Jerry Moffat's "Schwarze Wand" and Wolfgang Güllich's "Sahara" and "Fata Morgana" are surrounded by some more quality routes in or around that grade. For the extreme hardmovers, "Nosegrind" offers a supreme line with a hard boulder over a striking prow. By now, also some lines in the 8th grade have been established, which end below the big roof in the west face.
Grades
UIAA
- VII: 1 routeVII: 1 route
- VII+: 1 routeVII+: 1 route
- VIII-: 2 routesVIII-: 2 routes
- VIII: 3 routesVIII: 3 routes
- VIII+: 1 routeVIII+: 1 route
- IX-: 5 routesIX-: 5 routes
- IX: 6 routesIX: 6 routes
- IX+: 6 routesIX+: 6 routes
- X-: 2 routesX-: 2 routes
- X: 1 routeX: 1 route
- X+: 2 routesX+: 2 routes
Most popular time of the year for climbing
- January: 0 ascentsJanuary: 0 ascents
- February: 0 ascentsFebruary: 0 ascents
- March: 1 ascentMarch: 1 ascent
- April: 17 ascentsApril: 17 ascents
- May: 7 ascentsMay: 7 ascents
- June: 9 ascentsJune: 9 ascents
- July: 4 ascentsJuly: 4 ascents
- August: 0 ascentsAugust: 0 ascents
- September: 15 ascentsSeptember: 15 ascents
- October: 12 ascentsOctober: 12 ascents
- November: 1 ascentNovember: 1 ascent
- December: 0 ascentsDecember: 0 ascents
Cardinal direction
Type
|
Title
|
Climbing style |
Grade |
Length |
Pitches |
Bolts
|
Ratings |
---|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VII
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VIII
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX+
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
X
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
X+
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
X+
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX+
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VII+
|
15 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VIII-
|
15 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VIII-
|
20 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
A3
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VIII+
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX-
|
18 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VIII
|
15 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VIII
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
X-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
X-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Coordinates
DD
49.989799, 11.187964
DMS
49°59'23.3"N 11°11'16.7"E
UTM
32U 656831 5539790
w3w
///necklaces.courageously.sweetly
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike
Access
From Steinfeld, drive towards Wölkendorf. Shortly after passing beneath the autobahn, there is a hiker's parking lot on the right.
Now just follow the path through the "Paradiestal" (east, pass beneath the autobahn again, then turn right into the valley at the fork) for about 1.5 km, until you can see the large crag on your left, slightly north of a little fork.
GPS: 11.18745, 49.98975
Now just follow the path through the "Paradiestal" (east, pass beneath the autobahn again, then turn right into the valley at the fork) for about 1.5 km, until you can see the large crag on your left, slightly north of a little fork.
GPS: 11.18745, 49.98975
2D
3D
Maps and trails
Questions and answers
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