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Crag

Leo Maduschka Gedenkwand

Crag · Fränkische Schweiz
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theCrag
  • Photo: theCrag
The wall is separated vertically by the fantastic "Nürnberger Kamin", which also presents the first pitch of the old aid climb "Leo Maduschka Gedenkweg" with its pendulum swing at the end. There's also a clear-cut horizontal break in the wall, separating the brittle, chossy lower half from the compact, smooth slabs at the top. Along this break runs "Auckenthaler Gedenkweg" after starting up in the chimney, then finishing through the dihedral around the corner. The recent additions are worthwhile, hard wall climbs on crimps and slopers.
Grades
UIAA
  1. III: 1 route
    III: 1 route
  2. IV: 1 route
    IV: 1 route
  3. V: 1 route
    V: 1 route
  4. VI-: 1 route
    VI-: 1 route
  5. VI: 1 route
    VI: 1 route
  6. VII-: 1 route
    VII-: 1 route
  7. VIII: 1 route
    VIII: 1 route
  8. VIII+: 2 routes
    VIII+: 2 routes
  9. IX-: 1 route
    IX-: 1 route
  10. IX: 2 routes
    IX: 2 routes
  11. IX+: 1 route
    IX+: 1 route
  12. X: 2 routes
    X: 2 routes
  13. X+: 2 routes
    X+: 2 routes
Most popular time of the year for climbing
  1. January: 0 ascents
    January: 0 ascents
  2. February: 0 ascents
    February: 0 ascents
  3. March: 0 ascents
    March: 0 ascents
  4. April: 0 ascents
    April: 0 ascents
  5. May: 0 ascents
    May: 0 ascents
  6. June: 1 ascent
    June: 1 ascent
  7. July: 0 ascents
    July: 0 ascents
  8. August: 0 ascents
    August: 0 ascents
  9. September: 0 ascents
    September: 0 ascents
  10. October: 0 ascents
    October: 0 ascents
  11. November: 1 ascent
    November: 1 ascent
  12. December: 2 ascents
    December: 2 ascents
Cardinal direction
NESW
Characteristics
Vertical
Sunniest time of the day
Morning
Noon
Afternoon

History

The aid route at the eponymous crag is named after Leo Maduschka, a German mountaineer, author and philologist who died in 1932 in the Dolomites while climbing in the north face of Civetta.
Type
Title
Climbing style
Grade
Length
Pitches
Bolts
Ratings
R18
Sport climbing
IV
Sport climbing
VII-
25 m
Sport climbing
IX
32 m
1
14
Sport climbing
X+
Sport climbing
VIII
Sport climbing
X
Alpine Climbing
VI-
30 m
2
Sport climbing
VI
20 m
Sport climbing
V
Sport climbing
VIII+
Sport climbing
VIII+
30 m
1
10
Sport climbing
IX-
30 m
1
10
Sport climbing
IX+
30 m
Sport climbing
X+
Sport climbing
IX
Sport climbing
III
Sport climbing
X

Coordinates

DD
49.841223, 11.191880
DMS
49°50'28.4"N 11°11'30.8"E
UTM
32U 657596 5523281
w3w 
///stopgap.smugglers.rarity
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Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Access

Park at the hiker's parking lot in Veilbronn. walk back to the street running through the Leinleiter valley and turn right (towards Heiligenstadt) until you find a forest road on your left. Follow this road upwards for 200 meters; here, another faint forest road crosses. Turn slightly right and you can already see the crag up ahead. There is no footpath from here, just walk up to the base.

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