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Crag

Landrichterseite

Crag · Fränkische Schweiz
Responsible for this content
theCrag
  • Photo: theCrag
This south-west facing crag has the best rock quality and routes of the crags around Frankendorf. In summer, the beech forest provides some shade, but the upper parts of the wall are fully in the sun, which makes it a good autumn and winter crag. The rock is very smooth, typical for the areas around Bamberg; there are basically no pockets, the climbing is mostly on roundish holds, slopers, and cracks.
Grades
UIAA
  1. III: 1 route
    III: 1 route
  2. III+: 1 route
    III+: 1 route
  3. V-: 1 route
    V-: 1 route
  4. V: 1 route
    V: 1 route
  5. V+: 2 routes
    V+: 2 routes
  6. VI-: 3 routes
    VI-: 3 routes
  7. VI: 3 routes
    VI: 3 routes
  8. VI+: 5 routes
    VI+: 5 routes
  9. VII-: 2 routes
    VII-: 2 routes
  10. VII: 4 routes
    VII: 4 routes
  11. VII+: 4 routes
    VII+: 4 routes
  12. VIII-: 4 routes
    VIII-: 4 routes
  13. IX-: 2 routes
    IX-: 2 routes
  14. IX: 2 routes
    IX: 2 routes
  15. IX+: 1 route
    IX+: 1 route
Most popular time of the year for climbing
  1. January: 0 ascents
    January: 0 ascents
  2. February: 5 ascents
    February: 5 ascents
  3. March: 19 ascents
    March: 19 ascents
  4. April: 11 ascents
    April: 11 ascents
  5. May: 3 ascents
    May: 3 ascents
  6. June: 4 ascents
    June: 4 ascents
  7. July: 4 ascents
    July: 4 ascents
  8. August: 3 ascents
    August: 3 ascents
  9. September: 2 ascents
    September: 2 ascents
  10. October: 24 ascents
    October: 24 ascents
  11. November: 0 ascents
    November: 0 ascents
  12. December: 9 ascents
    December: 9 ascents
Cardinal direction
NESW
Characteristics
Ramp Vertical Deserted Sheltered from wind
Sunniest time of the day
Morning
Noon
Afternoon
Type
Title
Climbing style
Grade
Length
Pitches
Bolts
Ratings
Sport climbing
0
0
Fix
Sport climbing
VI+
10 m
1
1
Sport climbing
VII-
10 m
1
2
Sport climbing
V-
10 m
1
1
Sport climbing
VIII-
10 m
1
3
Sport climbing
VI
10 m
1
2
Sport climbing
VI-
10 m
1
2
Sport climbing
0
0
Sport climbing
0
0
Sport climbing
0
0
Sport climbing
VII+
18 m
1
3
Sport climbing
VI+
15 m
1
4
Sport climbing
VII+
18 m
1
5
Sport climbing
VI+
10 m
1
2
Sport climbing
VI
15 m
0
0
Sport climbing
VIII-
10 m
1
3
Sport climbing
VI+
12 m
1
4
Sport climbing
VII-
18 m
1
4
Sport climbing
VI-
12 m
1
3
Sport climbing
VI+
12 m
1
4
Sport climbing
VII+
12 m
1
5
Sport climbing
III+
12 m
1
3
Sport climbing
VI-
12 m
1
3
Sport climbing
VII+
12 m
1
5
Sport climbing
IX-
18 m
1
6
Sport climbing
VIII-
14 m
1
6
Sport climbing
VII
15 m
1
3
Sport climbing
VI
10 m
0
1
Sport climbing
III
15 m
0
0
Sport climbing
VII
18 m
1
5
Sport climbing
0
0
Sport climbing
IX
0
0
Sport climbing
IX+
18 m
1
5
Sport climbing
IX
0
0
Sport climbing
VIII-
18 m
1
4
Sport climbing
IX-
10 m
1
3
Sport climbing
VII
10 m
1
5
Sport climbing
VII
18 m
1
4
Sport climbing
0
0
Sport climbing
V
0
0
Sport climbing
V+
0
0
Sport climbing
V+
0
0

Coordinates

DD
49.839687, 11.081674
DMS
49°50'22.9"N 11°04'54.0"E
UTM
32U 649677 5522885
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Show on Map
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Access

In Frankendorf, turn into a small road called "Bergweg", which leaves the village to the east. Follow the winding road uphill to a crossing (there is a large crucifix on your right). Park here.
Follow the forest road that branches off in northern direction from the crossing for 450 meters. Here, a slightly smaller dirt road branches off to the left. Follow it until – shortly after you've entered the forest – you see a tree nursery with a fence around. Walk left along the fence. After a few meters, you should see a little picnic area with a table and benches. Walk past it on the right, and you should be able to spot a steep gulley, which you descend to the foot of the crag.
GPS: 11.08087, 49.83998

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Climbing style
Sport climbing
Access
10-20 min
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