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Crag

Glatte Wand

Crag · Fränkische Schweiz
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    Photo: theCrag
One of Kurt Albert †'s favourite places, the Glatte Wand ("smooth wall") offers some technical face climbs mostly devoid of pockets. The climbing takes place on slopers and crimps, except for the great crack climb on the left (and the spicy crack finish of "Sportflieger"). The most popular route is the endurance classic "Tower of Power".
Grades
UIAA
  1. VII-: 1 route
    VII-: 1 route
  2. VII: 1 route
    VII: 1 route
  3. VII+: 1 route
    VII+: 1 route
  4. VIII-: 4 routes
    VIII-: 4 routes
  5. VIII: 1 route
    VIII: 1 route
  6. VIII+: 4 routes
    VIII+: 4 routes
  7. IX-: 4 routes
    IX-: 4 routes
  8. IX+: 1 route
    IX+: 1 route
Most popular time of the year for climbing
  1. January: 0 ascents
    January: 0 ascents
  2. February: 0 ascents
    February: 0 ascents
  3. March: 6 ascents
    March: 6 ascents
  4. April: 11 ascents
    April: 11 ascents
  5. May: 10 ascents
    May: 10 ascents
  6. June: 2 ascents
    June: 2 ascents
  7. July: 1 ascent
    July: 1 ascent
  8. August: 0 ascents
    August: 0 ascents
  9. September: 0 ascents
    September: 0 ascents
  10. October: 5 ascents
    October: 5 ascents
  11. November: 6 ascents
    November: 6 ascents
  12. December: 0 ascents
    December: 0 ascents
Cardinal direction
NESW
Characteristics
Vertical Face Kid friendly
Sunniest time of the day
Morning
Noon
Afternoon

History

The first route here was a ridiculous technical aid climb that started up "Dornröschen" up to the rooflet, then traversed to the right into "Sportflieger" and a bit up to a belay (there used to be a tree in the crack). It then traversed 7 meters to the right to another belay, and finished with a rope tension traverse even further to the right and down to the edge of the wall.
Type
Title
Climbing style
Grade
Length
Pitches
Bolts
Ratings
Sport climbing
VIII-
20 m
8
Sport climbing
IX-
20 m
1
8
Sport climbing
VIII-
20 m
Sport climbing
VII-
20 m
7
?
Sport climbing
VIII-
20 m
5
Sport climbing
VII
20 m
1
6
Sport climbing
VIII+
20 m
1
4
Sport climbing
VIII+
20 m
4
Sport climbing
VII+
20 m
1
4
Sport climbing
VIII
18 m
1
5
Sport climbing
IX+
20 m
1
6
Sport climbing
VIII-
20 m
Sport climbing
IX-
20 m
1
7
Sport climbing
VIII+
20 m
Sport climbing
IX-
20 m
1
8
Sport climbing
IX-
20 m
1
8
Sport climbing
VIII+
20 m
1
8

Coordinates

DD
49.815024, 11.226391
DMS
49°48'54.1"N 11°13'35.0"E
UTM
32U 660163 5520442
w3w 
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Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Access

Leave the B470 in Streitberg at the traffic lights. There is a free parking lot directly after the turnoff. From there, walk north-west to reach the road leading up the hill at the little kiosk (Streitberger Berg). Follow that uphill and keep going straight where it makes a left turn, onto a marked hiking trail (signs towards "Muschelquelle"). Follow that for about 400 meters and you'll be at the crag.
GPS: 11.22689, 49.81526

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Photos from others



Climbing style
Sport climbing
Access
Flat
5-10 min
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Features
2D 3D
Maps and trails
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